Author Archives: Maria Hammer

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

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The sailing leg to Tenerife, one of the Canaries island,  was not ideal from the start because the Grib file sad there will not be much wind. It did not fit in with our plan to stay longer on Madeira and there were no chance for getting better winds the next days. We had some wind though in the beginning, so we could sail fast with asymmetric spinnaker and main. After passing the islands outside Madeira the good wind disappeared but we kept on sailing for sail during the first night. After that we tried once in a while combining motor sailing with sails until we reached the coast of Tenerife and got some wind to sail on for a a couple of hours. We had sailed about 22 hour for sail and 27 for the engine. When mooring at the pontoon bridge we realised that it was a long time since we arrived to a marina during daytime and found that it was very nice. We had sailed for about 50 hours and 264.7 Nm on 14-16/9-2015.

After relaxing the first day we rented a car and took a tour up the mountain Teide, 3900 meter. The last volcanic eruption was in 1906. It was a fabulous nature experience we would not have missed. The pine-tree forest and the different colours of the earth, cliffs, and fauna al the way up the mountain.

The last day was spent waking around the city Santa Cruz.

Saturday the 19/9 we stated of for Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, our final destination on the first part of, what we hope will be our, around the world sailing tour.

 

 

 

Ilha da Madeira

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Next challenge, and the longest jet, was to sail from Lagos Algarve to “Ilha da Madeira” the Portuguese rocky island, famous for its many flowers and good temperature all year long, far out in the Atlantic ocean,  situated 510 Nm away. The ZyGrib file said that we would have NW winds and not to much, for the next three days,that was 8-10 September, so perfect for us. We started out of Lagos with absolutely no wind at all, so we had to go out for motor until wind and swells turned up. We sat sail after 1½ hour, main and asymmetric spinnaker, and sailed for half an hour so. Not enough wind but large swells.

We did not see any other ships but a cargo-ship but luckily a lot of dolphins visited us. Finally at 16:30 we got wind and sat main and asymmetric spinnaker until 17:00 upwind so jib instead of spinnaker. We got the best 24 h measurement jet, 192 Nm , obtained between first and second night sailing with main and asymmetric spinnaker.

A lot of stars in the sky and sometimes, late night, a beautiful tiny moon made the long nights easy to overcome. The threatening black clouds, together with the sundown, were amazing and happily for us they did not give any rain or to much wind. From now we sailed for sail until we were close to land and on the third day we pooled out the asymmetric spinnaker to windward with the spinnaker pool.

On The fourth day sailing Lars caught the first Gould Mackerel ever, after changing blink. The fish tasted great in the evening! It was quit comfortable sailing so we could start the gen-set and bake some Danish rye-bread. We sailed 510 Nm on three days and 14 hours and 40 minutes.

In the middle of the night we got sight of the black rocky island Madeira with fabulous light cascades along the coast. After a few hours we were moored at an empty pontoon in the Marina da Quinta Lorde. We were woken up next morning at 9 a clock by three harbour attendees helping us to move to a better place to moor.

After having bought very nice bred at the bar for breakfast, we relaxed and got some more sleep. It was a rainy day so relaxing the rest of the day.

We took the local bus next morning to Funchal city and it was a very exiting road trip on the mountain op and down in frightening speed. Getting of the bus on the avenida along the harbour we met a Swedish sailor couple, Ann-Marie and Micke,  We had coffee with them and a nice talk about sailing around the world. They did that a few years ago in there Najad sailing boat, Ellos.  A tour uptown for lunch and shopping at the big supermarket was on the program before the bus took us back to the beautiful but remote Marina da Quinta Lorde.

Next morning we took of for España and The Canarian Island Teneriffe and the city Santa Cruz. We were leaving Portugal after sailing around there for three weeks and three days enjoying it immensely.

 

 

 

Lagos

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We left Oeiras harbour at 12 o’clock 3/9-2015 and was waved goodbye by Heike and Herwig Worlddancer2 (with family) on the cay. Hope to see them next year in south Caribbean. At 12:10 we hoisted the jib.  The swells were very high and it took some time before we got used to them. The wind was between 20-30 knots. Passing Cabo Espichel at 15 h. At midnight we finally get a sight of the moon behind dark clouds. At 04 h we rounded Cabo de Saao Vicente in darkness and half an hour later we rounded Ponta de Sagres. The two “Rock Protrusion”  looked firs-full in the dark and we had planned to pas them in daytime but we sailed to fast with jib only.

The wind disappeared so we started the motor at 7 o’clock when the sun got up. 08:19 the 4/9, 121 Nm sailed, we were moored at the reception cay and at 9 o’clock on the F-bridge with the help of to Dutch sailors. There were several boats with ARC flag mooring on the bridge. Some of them are waiting for crew to come from Sweden and The Netherlands. A walk to the Chandelier shop and  a Pingo supermarket was to overcome that day. In the evening we were luckily surprised to get a visit from the crew of Infenito, Sigmund and wife. They invited us on a guided tour by care, to the protruding rocks and up the Monchique mountains, the next day. After a good meal of Piripiri chicken we were soon back in the harbour downloading beautiful pictures.

Next day 6/9 we had to wash deck and cockpit. In every harbour we had seen men using tremendous amount of fresh water washing there boat at any time and we had not once since we left Denmark done that. The more dirty the more rewarding it is to enjoy sitting in the cockpit after it has endured such a ruff treatment. Airline tickets to Denmark from Grand Canaria in October were bought and we were feeling good with the fought of seeing the family and friends soon. A walk to the beach near the harbour, “Meia Praia”, and to a Pingo Supermarket, washing cloves, get the radar to work (Lars and Kristoffer) and a few pictures to this site (Lars) was also on the schedule for this day.

7/9; Tuesday the 8/9 were the perfect day to sail to Madeira so just one day left in Lagos and we had not seen the village jet so that would be today. We took the harbour bridge over to the other side of the river and the centre of town. We saw the beautiful ring-wall, beaches with rock and caves and I, finally, got  a crepe with ham and cheese and nice salad. In the evening Pingo shopping, homepage and cocking and preparing for the longest tour yet, Lagos to Maderia.

 

Lisboa

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After staying in Porto for six nights we sailed out of the river Duoro Friday 28 August 2015 at 12 o’clock. We want to go for sail but there are not much wind. We make 17 Nm on 6 h and had to give up and start the motor and it was not turned of until 11 o’clock Saturday 29/8 when we launched the asymmetric spinnaker.
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It was nice to go for sail after a dark cloady and foggy night with almost no sight of the moon and the stars.  We had a nice ride until 17 h when we got more wind and changed to jib. At 22 h we changed the jib with the asymmetric spinnaker and at 24 h jib instead. At this time we had a visit of a few dolphins, so lovely. At 24 h we started the motor while passing by the fashionable Cascais and Estoril lightened up and continued up the river Tejo for a little while to arrive in Oeiras Marina Lisbon at 2 o’clock Sunday 30/9 after sailing for 38 h and 169 Nm. We got good help to find a mooring, in the middle of the night, by a harbour officer passing by, calling the harbour marster. After sleeping late we had very good bred for breakfast delivered in the cockpit in the same way as in Porto but much better bred. We took a walk a long side the Rio Tejo to find a supermarket. Time for washing clothes by hand since it was windy and sunny weather for drying. The next day a tour with local train to the city passing Belem on the way. We went up too highest point and could see the “Avenida de Liberdad” below, and went down again to enjoy a drink in the shadow of the trees in the avenida.
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In Alfama we found a local restaurant serving food for the working people in Lisboa on siesta time. Good fish dishes for less money but you had to bee patient. After that we whent up and down the more fancy Alfama hills than remembered it from 1978.
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The next day I had a sick throat and an ear and an eye infection. Luckily we had a supply of ear-drops, and eye-drops on board. After staying in bed one day I was again on my feet walking to the supermarket and washing cloth (for free) and preparing for the trip to Lagos on the Algarve coast of southern Portugal.

Porto

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Friday the 21/8-2015 we fuelled after waiting for an hour for the diesel in the harbour tank to settle after being filled up.  Therefore we got away later then planed, at 10:00, from these pleasant harbour to be. We had Punta Chanseira on Isla Sisarga Grande with lighthouse on our port side at 14 hour. Goodbye to Spain.  At 21:35 we set jib and main sail and enjoyed a beautiful sundown. At 22 hour the jib was rolled in and we kept the main up until 01:00 a clock. Unfortunately we had to go for motor the rest of the way to Porto and arrived there the 22/8 at 17 hour. We had some leftovers and took a walk along the Duoro river before going to bed.
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The next day it was very windy so we relaxed and stayed aboard most of the time. In the evening we had a delicious birthday dinner at the small fishers village close to the harbour. Grilled Scrimp and squid and grilled (durade) fish and for the birthday-kid a Portuguese cheesecake (a lot cream) of .
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We stayed for several days in Porto and got to see the town one day taking the mini ferry to the other side of the river and the tram to the centre of Porto.
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Walking around in Porto is not for unfit persons because it is built on hills. We got a lot of excise and good training for Lisbon later on. Bachalau sandwich coffee and coke was the treat. The rest of the time we spent walking around in the area shopping in the local mini-market, sitting in the harbour office with good WiFi making bank business and home page. Also overheated 24 volt battery bank shifted out and shifted micro switch in pressure-state in fresh water pump. Try with a new antennae to HF radio. Now we were ready for Lisboa!

La Coruña

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We staid at marina Coruña for several days and enjoyed the marina and the town very much. In the charming oldest part of town, high up, we find a bar- shop – restaurant with fantastic ham and goat cheese served with drought beer.
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Impressive post-office building, parks, playgrounds, and huge waterfront promenade was enjoyed by foot. Two large tent at the marina were offering food from different regions of Spain for a very reasonable price, every evening at at 21 hour. We had Paella one night and grilled sardines and  chicken the other night in a wonderful environment meeting the Spanish people dining late.

There were often families with several generations.  After fixing fresh water pump, making a shelf to the galley, trying to get HF radio to work, pictures to the other boats crossing the Biscay, washing clothes, home page and other tasks, we were ready for a long leg to Porto.

Biscayen

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It took two days and 10:45 h, on the 15-17/8-2015,  to cross over the huge Biscay bay and reach La Coruña in Spain. At 8:03 we sail out from the outer cay of Camaret-sur-mer after fuelling 2 times 200 Litre diesel. Thank`s to the men catching squids that help us moor at the fuel-station. From the start we struggled with heavy swells and it continued the first 24 h. After one hour we set main and jib and sail for 1½ hour before the wind turned more against so we rolled in the jib and took a reef in mainsail and had to start the engine. The nature were ruff and beautiful at the same time as we rounded the last cliffs of Brittany. Soon there were water, and only water, as long as we could see for 2 days. We had seen a couple of  sailing-boats heading out the same way and at 17:30 we got a VHF call from” Just So” that wanted very much to have us taking a picture of the boat going for gennaker. We were to far a way but “Infinito” were closer to take pictures. Now we were three boats out there having contact and it was nice (AIS / VHF). Later on a we got contact with a Dutch boat also. Before sundown we got visit of a couple of dolphins at a start and a lot of them after a while. So beautiful animals. We decided to enjoy seeing them jumping and diving around the bow, so no pictures or movies were taken. Twice a day we send mail home to our to sons, using Inmersat. We wanted to be able to have contact with our sons durring the passage of the Biscay. The second 24 h was not much fun because of misty and foggy weather and no sight of the Dolphins. Most of the time we could see at least to of the three boats following us. 01:19 the second night we met a sail-boat on the opposite direction and he flashed at us and I was unhappy for not being prepared to flash back. The third morning at 9:30 we could see land , Galicia, in Espania.  Suddenly it cleared up and we could see the other three boats heading for La Coruña. Unfortunately one of the boat got coaght in a fishing net and called us for help on the VHF. We turned around but “K’Dans” was closer and dragged the unlucky sailing-boat al the way to La Coruña. Afterwards, in the harbour, it was nice to meet al the people from the boats. Next day a diver cleared the boat from the net and we got some net for fruits and vegetables.

Guernsey to Camaret sur mer France

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133 Nm started in Guernsey 10:30 10/8-2015 and arrive 11:30 11/8 after 25 hour. We thought the forecast current was good with later on winds from north-east when we were going south-west. Unlucky again the wind and current against so a lot of boring motoring. After 2 hours we sat main sail with a reef and stay-sail and sailed upwind for 8 hours. We had haze and drizzle rain al day long. The rest of the sailing was motor and main with a reef. We moored, with nice help from French sailors, on the inside of the outer cay in Camaret sur mer, that did not show its best face because of the bad weather. A tourist attraction it is though, with a cemetery for old ships, an adorable little old church and a very popular place to fish from the cay. The village has a lot of restaurant and an artist-street. The sailing school is very active with optimists, hobycats and others.

Cherbourg to Guernsey The channel island

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43 Nm started in Cherbourg 14:00 8/8-2015 and arrived in Guernsey 23:00 after 9 hour of sailing . We had a lot of current against us and did not get the “Alderney race”. Also wind against and not much of it. We triad anyway to sail for sail. It was dark entering the pontoon outer harbour and we got to moor alongside too motor-boats on a pontoon not connected to land. Next day we got to move so we were connected to land. A long walk op to the highest part of the village and afterwards a nice treat with fish and ships and beer from drought at The Boat House on the harbour was nice. No shopping here because it was so expensive so glad for having filed up in Cherbourg. On the way to the outer harbour we inspected the inner harbour that had a “sill” at the entrance and a scale showing the water level above the so cold sill, a stone plate. We woke up, in the middle of the night, by the sound of firework and it was not a small one, right in front of us in the harbour entrance with the lightened up castle at one side. I have nether seen anything like it.

Dieppe to Cherbourg in France

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107,6 Nm started in Dieppe 9:30 5/8-2015 and arrived in Cherbourg around midnight after 14,5 hours. After a few hours the wind disappear so we had to go for motor. Lars tried fishing and got lots of as he thought was too small mackerels) and Maria worked out. Cherbourg have a large outer harbour so we thought it would be easy arriving during night but was the opposite because there was so many entrances to different harbours, so many lights. We easy moored on a waiting pontoon until next day when a nice harbour captain in a rib gave us a direction on where to moor. We got excellent help from a nice couple from England, Hamble river, to land and had a very nice stay in Cherbourg, mostly working on Alexandra but a nice guided walk threw the city and a sundowner with  Maggie and Tim was there time for.