Author Archives: Maria Hammer

Kumai, Kalamantan, Borneo Island, 7/10-11/10 2018

Kumai, Kalamantan, Borneo Island, 7/10-11/10 2018

6/10 Sail to Kumai, First 6:00. We get good speed from the start but soon also big swells. We hose main and jib and turn of the motor. Later in the day we take a reef. First night we sail with jib alone. 7/10 At five a clock when Lars came up we sat the main and it gave 2 knots more in speed a short while. We can made water now for 1½ hour. Now we can stop the gen-set and start the motor. We have wind in the nose. Finally we were in the bay and could drop anchor. A boat with an arranger of house boat trips came by and we told her who we wanted to sail with and they talked to al the boats. We go in with Sven end Lisa and met the tour arranger at the little hotel and we pay our part of the trip and Flora and Damien, on Skybird, and Diana on Samara 11 could pay the next morning. We got nice chicken sate at a very small family restaurant on the main street. A little shopping also in the small shops.

8/10 Bus tour with the rally. We were picket up by two big buses and went to a village with old dayak houses. Before entering the main house they had a welcome sermon that meant that a man cut down a bamboo fence with a machete. Everybody got a bracelet out of rope that should give good luck. In the big hall we all could taste home made rice wine served in a bamboo mug. There were things to do outside like blow out an arrow threw a bamboo pipe, see how rise were cocked in bamboo tubes and learn traditional dances. Also try to play on traditional instrument.

The bus took as to another traditional house and also here they had a sermon when entering. Weal got a dot og ash on the forehead. Some local snacks were offered us while touring around the big dark old, but beautiful, building.

The bus took us to a Festival by the river. Unfortunately it was raining a lot so Lars and I did not go sailing longboats in the channel but some did and got very wet. There were a competition on making the best dresses out of trash and that was amazing creations showed there. Also on Esperanza Florian and Trevor on Snow Flight competed in sailing a canoe in opposite direction to each over. Florian, using foul tricks, won. It was a lot of fun, (on U-tube).

Up on the bus again and the dinner were served at a forth place and before eating there wore several speeches. The famous Canadian researcher (zoology and psychology degrees) in orangutang, Dr Birute Mary Galdikas were introduce on the scene. She has lived close to the animals almost al her working life. Michael on SY Henrietta hold a speech both on English and Indonesian!

9-10/10 Two days on a houseboat in the Kumai National orangutang park. We were picked up at 10:30 on our yachts. Alexandra Lars and Maria, Randivåg Sven and Lisa, Sky Bird Damian and Flora and Samara11 Diana. While sailing we got a nice lunch. We went to feeding station number one and waited a while for the orangutan to come and get bananas. The boat stopped at a tree with Male Proboscis monkeys. Lovely dinner with local bintang beer. Night walk. Slept under mosquito net. Next day we visited two more feeding station. we had a great time with the other sailor and also good guide and great food. The last picture show buildings for swallows making birds-nest and for harvesting birds-nests. The chines love to eat them.

Bawean island 02-06 October 2018

30/9 Sailing to Bawean and a pit stop at Rass Island 74.3 NM away. Up at 05 and get the dive compressor packet furtherest away in the aft compartment. So get dingy motor on board and the dingy on the davit. Anker up at 06 in the morning and an hour after Randivåg. No wind so motor sailing. Sat main at 09 a clock. Later on 13 knots of wind. Beautiful sunset and nice sundowner when anchor was dropped close to Blue Rogers, Randivåg and Volo.

1/10 Sailing to Bawean Island over night jib only. First coal barge we saw. Later on we saw many.

2/10 At 10 a clock in the morning we enter the north bay of Bawian island and drop the anchor. After a nap we lower the dingy and went in to register. Two nice “guide/English student” girls went with us a tour around the village. We bought some bread and met a teacher who invited us to meet his university students. They sat on the floor in circle eating fruit and we had to get down on the floor too. We got fruit and the lady at the house gave us bread. Many pictures were taken of us with them.

3/10 Early morning we get picked up from Alexandra by a local boat and sailed to the Gili island. Thanks to Susanne on Erie Spirit who told him that we expected to be picked up at Alexandra. Our captain had a good boat and he pressed the speeder to the maximum. After a while we had only the police speedboat close bye all the other boats were much slower. One of the local boat had a leek and it was not much fun for the passenger. The idea was nice though to get out sailing with a local fishing-boat. Arriving on the Gili island we could go on land on the not so good bridge and the others had to get into the water. On the island Lars and I swam a little tour and Lars catch some corals and fish further out on the GoPro . I saw only see-grass. We bought some chips made from cassava root. Back to the very bridge and after climbing over another local boat we could reach ours and on we go to the Mhumbul Beach. Here we got a big welcome. All off us getting sarongs and hats before entering the stairs up the hill to the area for getting local food. The minister of tourism asked me if I wanted to hold a speech and of cause I could not say no. There were a lot of speeches from the scene further up. My speech was very short just telling about our dream to sail around the world and now being in Indonesia we were half away around. Also telling them how we enjoyed being here because of the beautiful places, historical sights but most because of the nice and friendly people. We got a big basket each with paper flowers and goodies because it was Muhammed´s birthday. Back to the anchorage in the north we were transported by trucks sitting on the let.

4/10 One of the young men took us, Sandie, Max, Lisa, Sven, Lars and I, to a whole day trip around the island. First to a culture centre with dance and batik. We drove a long very narrow road to a sanctuary for a very rare deer only existing here. They were not easy to see but Lars got them on the telephoto lens. We visited a factory making fish stick snacks and a shop selling rugs made of palm leaves. Finally we visited our drivers home and his mother invited us for lunch. It was very generous and we were not allowed to pay. The sweet mother had a pond with gold fish and enjoyed her garden with vegetable and fruit trees. We could taste a couple of exotic fruits. As she was a widow, living with two suns, a daughter in law and a daughter, was a good solution. Our driver could get time for a private prayer while we were eating, sitting on the fine rug, in the big hall. The village with nice houses was a little empty because many people worked in Malaysia. Back again we had no time to dress up but continue to a hot spring bath were we met the others. After that back to Mhumbul Beach again for farewell party on the pier.

5/10 Many rally boat have sail this morning. We stay put and make water for Sean and Sabine on Chevaldy. Sean had an infected wound, so he got eosin red in 10 ampules to put on twice a day, after rinsing the wound. Also they had problems with the motor. They had caught a fishing line in the propeller and the line had pulled the shaft out of the gear box. Sean borrowed an air tank to go down and check the propeller. Cleaning the boat and spray for prevention of getting cockroaches. Sundowner on Randivåg also with Max and Sandi.


Lovina Bay – Bali Island 21/9-30/9 2018

19/9 Sailing to Amber Bay north west Bali Island. Upwind sailing and up to 24 knots of wind. We take a swim to the beach with black lava sand. In the evening we enjoy walking along the coastline and having a drink and a meal on the beach. Back on Alexandra we see SY Henrietta drifting before we go to bed. At 23 hour the anchor alarm wake us up and we realise that we have drifted out of the bay so we have to hoist the anchor and sail back and re anchor. 20/9 Amber Bay Bali. Baking rye bread and snorkel tour with Lisa And Sven from SY Randivåg. A walk along the beach and a drink and food at another place on the beach. It was very enjoyable and good.

21/9 Early up and run the water-maker. The dingy had to be washed from lava sand and lifted up on davits. We sail out of the bay at 7:15 after other rally boats for motor and jib and later on the mainsail. We had wind on the nose and not so much but we managed to hall in on some boats and past them. At Singaraja, were the rally wanted us to anchor, we tried to anchor once but no good holding so we continue to Lovina Bay. 22/9 Lars got diving compressor up from the aft compartment so he could fill up a dive tank for Russell on Mandolin, before he sailed of to Malaysia, a head of the rally. 23/9 Lars had a bad stomach so stay a board and writing to website, running water-maker etcetera. In the afternoon we pass Chevaldi boat with Chaun and Sabina on the way to town for to ask if we could help with an impeller. We continued to the bridge (difficult for me to get up when law tide so Lars had to lift me up) for ATM, shopping food and top-up data. Also visit Nia and Raymond at the rally office. Nice filé of pork for dinner after sailing in Muslim part of Indonesia for so long where pork meat does not exist.

24/9 At nine a clock we get diesel delivered to the boat. Lars goes in with Sabina to pay the rally fee 1000000 IDR = 471.5DKK. I stay aboard because it is my turn to have stomach pain.

25/9 Singaraja by mini bus. Nice morning with short speeches, Bali dancer, Indonesian and western music delivered by three bands. Coffey and lunch brakes and off cause group photo.

26/9 Lars is attending a cocking competition in Singaraja until 14 hour. Dinner for al in the rally at Sea-Breeze café, dance performers on the big scene at the Delphi monument and a drink at a little restaurant.

27/9 Very nice tour to a village were we got to see products they made. I bought coffee, grounded and beans. Artist from school made portrait, palm leaf weaving, cases and lamps made out of aluminium, Bali cocking etcetera. Lars got out riding on a carriage pulled by a bull. Nice lunch and dancing groups afterwards were we could join in a little. On the way back they stopped at an arena for bull race. We could see the preparation for the race and the race and we could bet.

28/9 City walk with Cokorda Istri Dewi in the old port of Singaraja. We visit the kings palace and first the queen and later the king came by. They took time to shake hands with every one. The old library were fascinating. Here we could see how they cut out letters using bamboo stick and colour from nutmeg. After lunch we visited a Chinese and a Bali temple on the harbour. The latter had a funeral so interesting sermons to see. Flora from Skybird II could understand some of the text in the chines temple and explained it to us.

29/9 Bali taxi tour with Sandra and Frank from Blue Roger to UNESCO rise field. It was a long ride but well worth it. Stunning fields so well kept.


Banda Neira and Banda Besar The spice islands.

30/7-31/7 We left Debut and sailed to a little island Tayandu at 7:10. Not much wind so motor until later when we set jib and sail fast. On the anchorage at 13:20.

For anchor at Tayandu. Lars shift out old leaking cool water pump to Yanmar with a knew from the spare part inventory. Wau, no water leakage any-more. Sun-downer at blue Roger but I stay home because sour throat coming up, bad stomach and leg that hurt. Could it be worst. Later on I found out that almost everybody in the rally had sour throat at that time. I enjoyed reading Elisabeth Pisani´s e-book Indonesia Etc.

1/8-2/8 2018 Sailing to Banda Neira. The spice islands. Anchor up 09 hour. A fuse goes when there are 10 meter anchor chain left. Lars have to fix it and of we go.

Arrive in Banda Neira in the afternoon the second of august after seeing several whales and especial one beside Alexandra when we drop anchor.

3/8 Banda Neira. Feverish night! Woke up at 5:30, at a Mullah´s sung from the mosque, and made tea with honey for my sour throat. I had feather all day and was coughing. Laundry, three IKEA bags, was picked up by a local boat with man, wife and daughter. We by papaya and carrots for overprice and later more fruit. Lars check out the town with Lisa and went in in, the evening, to see a movie at a hotel that Abbas, local guide, owned.

4/8 Banda Neira. To the colonial hotel and Spice Island tour on Banda Besar. We were all packed in a local boat and sailed over to the neighboring island for to see were the spices trees grow. The village were very clean and with beautiful houses, schools and mosques. We went up a long stare-way to reach the inner island with the big trees. There were big high old almond trees protecting the nutmeg trees from the sun and there were also cinnamon and clove trees. It was a wonderful forest to walk around. We could rest in a house and was served local coffee and fried bananas etc. I was very happy to manage to go the long tour with my troubled right leg/knee.

5/8 Lars on diving tour with Susan Eri Spirit. I was resting my leg.

6/8 Banda Neira. With the dingy to the hotel and a tour around the town. We went up to the old Dutch fort from 1600. Everything seemed to be closed but the Chinese shop were open so we could by a bred, cinnamon roles, Pringles, dried bananas and cola. At the old colonial hotel we got a beer and freshly made pineapple juice.

7/8 Banda Neira Lars was sick but fresh enough to take me to the reef so I could swim for a short while after Ross´s instruction. It was a beautiful reef. We left Banda in the afternoon for sailing to Tifu making a pit-stop at Palau Ambelau the 8/8. After safely anchored we had a lot of teenager boys climbing up the platform and looking inside the boat threw port-holes in the hall. They wanted books in English and we had only some brochures to give them. Al literature is electronic on Alexandra. We were exhausted and had not much patient to deal with them. Some of the boats had problems with the anchor holding and did not sleep so well.

Sailing Vanuatu 2/8-16/9 2017

Port Villa Efate island

2/8-17 In the afternoon we sail in to “Waterfront” Port Villa with a fully packed dingy with Kirsten and Bjarne and there luggage. It is still a problem with the propeller and the tour back does not go much better when lighter. Lars found an extra propeller and will try it next day. We saw the aeroplane taking off to Fiji passing over the anchor place. Later we saw a chines news program in English on the TV. We had not looked at television for a long time.

3/8-17 Next day was busy with getting Digicel net, ATM, vegetable market but we also had time to get the best pizza ever at the Brewery (goat cheese and lamb meat) with the India pale dark beer. Lars took the jerrycan for gasoline and got it filled up. Finally, in the afternoon, we took the dingy to the big key for Cruising ships and cargo ships to visit custom and get our cruising permit for all the island in Vanuatu. We continued to sail with the dingy over to the “Waterfront” and provisioning at the supermarket.

4/8-17 More provisioning for goat cheese, vegetable, and fish. Lars downloaded photos and made series of pictures for Suva, Beqa and Pacific Harbour. Unfortunately the net was not good enough to download pictures to the web side.

5/8-7/8 17 We sail to Pelé Bay north of Efate. First 1.5 hour for motor and then jib out. The wind disappeared later on and we started the motor. We met Samoa SY JAMS and Murray called us on the VHF to tell that we had to visit Banan Bay and so we did later on. We anchor between Nguna and Pelé island in a large bay with some protection for the swells. The weather did not invite for a dingy tour to land or snorkelling at the reef. In the afternoon we had a beautiful rainbow to look at thought. We were the only boat in the bay having a relaxing two day stop over keeping up with administration.

7/8-8/8 Pelé Bay to Lamen Bay on Epi Island. It is raining 7:15 in the morning so reign jackets on, anchor up and launch the mainsail with two reef and jib. Shortly after we took out the reefs and shortly after that we start the motor because the wind disappeared. More wind is coming up and we have to get the main down. The wind gusts get lower so main up with one reef. Main down and start motor with jib out. Finally, after a very difficult day of sailing, we sail into a wonderful and calm bay without swells. We hear the children’s laughter while they are paddling around in there outrigger canoe. We enjoyed a beautiful sundown in the cockpit having beer, freshly baked bread, olive and papaya. No sight of the Dugong (Cow Fish, has a “whale” tail) but we got another trial later on. Turned in 18:15.

8/8-10/8 Lamen Bay to Banan Bay (Banam) on Malakula Island. It is raining at 06:00 but at 08:00 sunshine. Hoist the anchor and sail out of the beautiful bay. We launched the main with one reef and the jib at 8:25. Jibe when sailing into Banam Bay and the anchor is dropped at 14:45. We are getting visitor immediately. A boy in an outrigger canoe and a man in a bigger canoe asking for rope. Another one got a rope for two pompelmus (pomelo, grapefruit, citron-melon, shaddock) he came with later on. Two yang men sold two pawpaw (papaya), bananas and a bag of very large green beans for 600 VUV. The next day it is cloudy but the water is 25°C. Mobile is launched up in the mast to get net and gen-set and water-maker is running. Also the dive-compressor is taken up from the aft store room and two new capacitor, that Kirsten brought from Denmark, are installed. Now it is possible for the compressor to fill up the two tanks with air without problems.

10/8-13/8 Visit Banam Bay village

Cloudy morning. We took the dingy down into the water, mount the motor on and sail into the beach situated outside a village you cane hardly see because of the big trees. I wanted, and felt that I needed badly, a walk on the beach, because we had not been on land for several days. It turned out that we did not get the long walk because we were invited in to the village by the chief. He wanted to have a rope and so did some of the others. I was invited to come home to a beautiful young mother of four. She had the youngest one on her arms and he was a pretty one. The other children were in school were they came by walking 1½ hour each way. She cooked for us and so did the oldest man (boiled pumpkin leaf and spinach surrounding mashed cassava roll). They were wonderful people. Almost all of the men were involved in building a house for the women’s brother in law who lived in Port Villa. All the children were in school except a little “sick” one. Lars gave him a little red US football he could play with with the other children. As payment for the rope, school things and nips we got wonderful big papayas, that we like so much, and the old man came with a bag of cassava roots.

Back on Alexandra 13:00 we hurried on to get sailing to a bay further up between Malakula island and Uri island. We dropped the anchor in the dark 18:30.

11/8 Sunny morning, at Uri island, but very windy so no snorkelling. Instead baking ginger cookies and rye and wheat bred. Lars try to repair the propeller to the outboard motor. There is always something to do.

12/8 Uri Island early sunny morning but very windy and 75% cloud cover mid day. Lars find out that the 12 volt converter did not work so he connected a household extra converter that works very slowly. Later sunny again and less wind.

13/8 Aore Resort on Aore Island (pronouns Awree). Water temperature 25.6 sunny morning but a lot of clauds. Sailing towards Luganville, the one of second towns in Vanuatu, situated on the large island Espiritu Santos. We pass Uri and Uri Piv islands. Maria washes the deck while we are sailing out between small islands and the bigger Malakula island. We hoist the main sail, in up to 18 knots of wind and sail 5.5-6.6 knob. We get a cold coca cola. Lars feel bedder today and can get a nap. (We could go on messenger with Kristoffer who is moving out today of his apartment at Heimdalsgade, a little sad! He gets help by his big brother Frederik and his friends Mathias and Glen.) We decide to anchor outside Aore island, opposite Luganville, on the other said of Segond channel.

14/8 We take the dingy to Aore resort to talk to them about payment for the mooring and we got told that it is the neighbour, Paul White´s, Aore Adventure Sports, who shall have the money for the boy. We sail to Paul and Lars could make an arrangement to dive with him the day after. Afterwoods we take a tour by the curtsey ferry, cost one VUV per person, to Luganville on Espiritu Santo to buy net.

15/8 Aore Island. Lars had two amazing dive on President Coolige. They went down to 36 meter. Lars had not been so deep in resent years.

17/8 Lars dive on Million Dollar Point and on a beautiful coral reef with a lot of soft corals..

18/8 Aore island nice morning. Deliver to bags of dirty cloves to Paul’s wife and take the dingy to Loganville with gas-tanks to be filled up. It turned out that it was difficult to do with one of the tanks so the taxi driver had to take care of another customer and come back to us later. Lars tested repaired propel but it did not work. Nice bunns with tuna salad and French pâté. Lars shift impeller to gen-set and clean the filter. Make humus and boil kassava and mash it. It tasted like potatoes but more starch. Good with lam and Chicken sausages. Nice peacfull evening.

19/8 Aore Island. We went with the courtesy ferry to Luganville in the morning. The little ferry was packet because many people from the resort should go on bus tours. We went to the market after fruit and vegetables but it was not as good as in Port Villa. We had an ice-cream and a cola in the park. ATM and supermarket and back home to Aore island. We snorkelled on the reef outside the resort and it was fine because a lot offish, also big once. We took the dingy to White and paid for mooring and laundry and took a walk on the island. There were very quirt. We met a bull with his cows and calves.

20/8 We sailed from Aore Island to Palikulo Bay on Espiritu Santo. Lars had problems with the new version of Open CPN sent special to him. He had to ad an old version. When taking Dingyn up, there were problems with one of the screw to fastened outboard. I had problems to get free of the mooring boy so Lars came to help. Nice warm and sunny morning. Dead downwind out of the bay. 2 knots current so sail 6.1 knob with 11-12 SW. Free of Aore island at 09:52. We sail east a bit before heading strait north in direction of Palikulo Bay på Espiritu Santo. We past a rusty ketch wreck from the war. Beautiful bay with fore sailing-boats for anchor. A short time after anchoring we herd a bum and took the anchor up again and find another place to drop it. Nice lunch but disappointed not getting into the water to snorkel on the, for sure, fantastic reef, because of to much wind. Internet was not good but Lars managed to send an email to Pacific Circle Rally. Now there were time to bake a banana cake and a bred.

21/8-22/8 Pentacost island

Nice sailing, wind on the bow, with mainsail and stay-sail. We reached the south westerly coast of Pentacost island in the afternoon. At the 22/8 Maria’s birthday we herd kids playing on the beach and in the river mouth a family were fishing. We had a nice snorkelling to the reef close by. Lars discovered though that the anchor chain were around a “bummy” (coral head) so Lars got down, with diving equipment on, and released the anchor chain. Hamburger with freshly made buns for dinner.

23/8-2017 80% cloud-cover but nice morning with 8 knots of wind. Bistro coffee made of Vanuatu Aore coffee beans. Many birthday greetings came tonight on Facebook and messenger. Thank you all! We sail out of the bay 08:15 towards the island Ambrym and 13:41 we are in Olal on the north coast of Ambrym. Tuff sailing upwind with motor and staysail. Irritating swells on the beam. Wonderful to pass threw the reef and came in behind the Australian catamaran Tika with Russel and his family. They gave advise on the way in.

24/8 2017 Olal Ambrym island

We relaxed on Alexandra the next day. Cloudy and several rain shower but later on blue sky. A lot of wind up to 25 knots. A Cobra ship came into the tiny bay with fast speed and passed between Tika and Alexandra and sailed up on the sandy land with the front. And then there were a lot of activity emptying and filling up the ship from land. The natives came with bags filled up with cobra. A cow is bathing in the ocean. Lars is quick with the camera.

25/8 2017 The next day we went up to the festival place and had a nice afternoon enjoying old fashion traditional dancing that ending up with the famous Rom dance. There was a break in the middle of the show and lunch was served including fish, chicken, pie, vegetables and bread. We could learn about handcraft from the women and the sailors children could play with the local children.

26/8-2017 We are motoring the 2.42 NM, to Nobul village, situated at the north-west coast of Ambrym, early in the morning. Lars is very sick with lots of gasses in his stomach. We think it is a reaction of getting lactose in the food yesterday. Lars downloader GoPro film, sound trac and pictures from the festival and make copies to Russel. Florian and Martina arrange that we can have a meal together in a local hut. It takes half an hou to go there.

27/8-2017 Sunny morning in Nobul until NZ a lot of rain comes a short time. The guide from Ranon comes with a couple from NZ to talk a bout the vulkano tour tomorrow together with Florian and Martina from Esperanza. After making some bean salad for lunch we sail to Ranon. Rest a little when it is raining again. It is very warm up to 30°C. I bake bred and oaties even if it is very hot.

28/8-2017 Vulcano tour star of well. Up on the truck with Florian and Martinn. After a tuff ride up the mountain we have to get off the truck and walk up the rest of the mountain. We have a lot to carry because we have planed stay over night in a hut on the mountin. Half way up Lars get very sick with gases and when rest and drinking water doesn’t help the guide make a mixture with water and a herb find in the forest by his assistant. Lars get strength to walk down to the pickup place for the truck. After a while the truck come and drive us down to the place of our dingy. We get help with getting the dingy in the water. Lars can just drive out to Alexandra about 13-14 hour. During night Lars can throw up and the gasses get reduced. He can sleep the fever away.

29/8-2017 Ranon Bay. Lars is still throwing up but sleep a lot and the fever decreases over time. We are alone on the anchorage but I am happy to get contact with brother Stefan and our sons on messenger. Lars and I take a glass of mineral water against dehydration at 14 hour. I enjoy a cola and nuts at 17 hour and watch the cargo ship Vanuatu arrive in the bay. Bags with flour and rice are sailed in with a tugboat and bags with cobra are sailed out to the ship.

30/8-2017 Ranon Bay. Lars still not well but he could talk to Stuart on MagNet. He started taking medicine for ulcer in the morning before eating. Wish we had a doctor here. No wind and blue sky and 27.2 grader. I run the water-maker 1.5 hour and put isolation tape on the fridge. We drink a lot of water and other beverage. Esperanza sail up north today. Lars can eat spaghetti with vegetable at 17 hour. Internet so talk to the boys. The apartment is sold and paid for. One worry less but also sad.

1/9-2017 Ranon Bay. Sail to Craigs Cove village situated at the west coast of Ambrym at 08:50 after 6 night here not getting on land it I even is nice to get sailing. It clear up slowly after a misty early morning. We let the outboard hang on the dingy that hang on the davits because it is a short sail. 15NM 13 knots of wind in the nose, 3 hours motor sailing and anchor drop 12:30. There are a lot of activity on land. Peopel come home with small motorboats after shopping elsewhere. Two boys are passing by in there outrigger and said hi. Lars can eat a bole of rice. He is very weak also now with podagra in toe and knee and ibuprofen crème helps. Our sons in Denmark are going to a boat show in Ishøj tomorrow. Stew with rice and vegetable for dinner.

2/9-2017

Craigs Cove. Claudy 25°C the whole day. Magnet with Saroni Alison. Difficult to here. We get pictures from the boat show from Jeanne. Little Oskar enjoy the big Arcona boat! We rest and enjoy the bay and all the activity from the boat. Every morning women wash there cloves on lava stones at the shore side and dry them on the lava stones. They use a lot of energy banging the clothes on the stones. To women sit in an outrigger fishing every evening but they seldom get a little fish. Banana-boats are constantly running transporting people back and forth. Pickup truck transport wooden board away from the beach. The only other boat on the anchorage leaves today with to backpacker. We are alone again but both of us feel much better. Exercise in the cockpit. At 23:00 our I wakeup when a cobra boat comes in with a lot of noise from passengers. One our later another cobra boat comes in.

3/9-2017 Claudy with som blue fields. MagNet with Russel. Ten dolphins are swimming around Alexandra and make some low jumps. We put the dingy in the water and g to shore. A lot of children came and great us and we are guided around the village by Olivia one of the oldest child. They gave us fruit like pawpaw and coconut. When reaching for the dingy anchor I my left knee. scull looked and it heart a lot. After massage my knee scull came in right position and we could sail out to Alexandra. Five teenage girls came visiting us on Alexandra in the afternoon. They enjoyed finding were Denmark was situated inn the world and by looking in Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Destinations. Later on they came back with some eggs to us.

4/9-2017 Craigs Cove. 30 % cloucover wind from SE and a lot in the gusts so we stay unother day. Lars sign up to GoWest Rally. Lars clean the sea cuck to the gen-set and filled up with oil on the high pressure pump to water maker

5/92017 Craigs Cove til Lammen Bay searching for dugon. Sunny morning with only a few clauds. Sail out 8:00 for motor and it goes slowly upwind. 8:55 set staysail and sail 4.5 knots. Water 25.8, 25 in the air and swells 1 meter. At 13:30 we anchor at Lamen bay. Relax with books the rest of the day.

6/9-2017 Big turtle and dolphins around Alexandra. Dingy to land and shop. A lady sold her last tomatoes and salad. He sun had a little shop with mostly can food.

7/9-2017 A lot of wind but we get to swim and see several turtles, one very big, but no the dugon.

8/9-9/9 Over night sailing from Lamen Bay to Port Villa with start at 16:50 and sailed into the anchorage at 7 a´clock the next day.

9/9-16/9 Port Villa Efate Island

ICA Ralley

Provisioning

Tanna by air.

Balboa Yachtclub, Panama City, Panama

The anchorage north of the pier were filled up, at the time we arrived from the channel on the 27/4-16 and we were directed to a mooring on the south side of the pier. Around us we have a lot of different kinds of working boats that can produce great waves when they come and go. It was supposed to be a quick stop here in Panama but after 21 days we are still here.

Getting on land we have to take the, free of charge, harbour water taxi. Also washing clothes and showering is posible and for that we have our own keyset. Short time after arrivel we had a nice and informative meeting with ”Panama Karsten”, a Dane that help cruiser to get a round here and Galapagos, at Balboa Yachtclub.

To get around the city and getting things done and provisioning you have to go by taxi and you have to learn how to bargain. Here we got the HF radio ICOM open for HAM channels by an ICOM specialist. Thanks to Hans B for giving and Jens T for bringing the radio. The fresh water pump has new drive belt and an extra gas tank is bought. Anchor winch and a pump for the cooling water are ordered from the US and should be delivered today. We are still waiting for the camera lens to be repaired by a cannon specialist.

Heat and mosquito have made the stay here tough once in a while but a lot of good food and drink on board and a breeze make it bearable. People are nice and friendly here. Only one of several taxi-drivers has been bad. Also, good information on the 8:00 o’clock cruisers net have been helpful. We got gas that way with a taxi-driver that took al needed cruisers tanks to be filled up. Gas cost the same as our part of the cost for the taxi. We have been over to the cay once to fill up water and diesel tanks. The watermaker is not being used here because the water is not good enough for desalination or bathing in for that coarse.

Just now, 19/4-16 13 PM. the Panama agent for Marine warehouse, Atoro, called to inform that the anchor winch will be delivered to Balboa in half an hour!!! Happy time except there were no pump! Restorder? Unbeliveble. Lars is now occupied with taking the old winch out and putting the new up. It is tough work in the heat. Ivar assists and put sun-cover up and it helped a lot. Late sundowner and Lars have mounted the winch and the motor. Electrical wiering  remain to do tomorrow as well as clearind out of Panama. So hopefully we are leaving Balboa saturday morning at 4 AM for the Pearl Islands, Isla del Rey.

 

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

When ready to leave Marina de Santa Cruz, early in the morning, we called the harbor and the night guard came to the boat and exchanged the harbor key cards to EUR. Good service. Upwind sailing most of the day took us to Gran Canaria. We moored at the pontoon at the reception because it was Sunday and no harbor attendants around. We took a nice walk around the harbor and looked at the big boats mooring on the east key, Dique Este.

The next morning we were ordered to move to the R pontoon, mooring 8, on the north key, Contradique Norte. We had to very intense weeks trying to make Alexandra as good as possible before our good friends Lene and Bjarne arrived. Empty aft cabins, making drawers for the galley, washing clothes cleaning up etcetera.

Lars used a day to try to fix the outboard Yamaha but it was Bjarne that fixed it later on. We were lucky to spend some time with the Swedes from EOS and got a lot of good advice from the to very experienced, once around the world, sailor. Also time to join the other Scandinavian sailor at the sailors bay (bar) every Friday at 20 h. Here we got a lot of advice from very competent sailors some of them who had sailed single-handed around the world.

A tour home to Denmark to see the family and friends (not enough time) and empty our house, while Lene and Bjarne took care of Alexandra on the best way, have we also done.

Last week we had a very appreciated visit from Sweden by my brother Stefan end his wife Affi. We enjoyed bathing at the very nice Playa de Canteras and meals and drinks at restaurants and on Alexandra.

We have made check in at ARC office, helicopter rescue demonstration, sad goodbye to ARC+ (we miss them, especially the Odyssey crew) on a party arranged by the city, have been through security check (had to by another radar reflector to our aluminium boat!).

We have also enjoyed our first sundowner with the ARC. Not forget to mention our tour with the dingy to the start of the ARC+. It was a lot of fun. Now we look forward to have the family here soon and also the “pro sailor crew” arriving at the 14, 15 and 19/11!

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

The sailing leg to Tenerife, one of the Canaries island,  was not ideal from the start because the Grib file sad there will not be much wind. It did not fit in with our plan to stay longer on Madeira and there were no chance for getting better winds the next days. We had some wind though in the beginning, so we could sail fast with asymmetric spinnaker and main. After passing the islands outside Madeira the good wind disappeared but we kept on sailing for sail during the first night. After that we tried once in a while combining motor sailing with sails until we reached the coast of Tenerife and got some wind to sail on for a a couple of hours. We had sailed about 22 hour for sail and 27 for the engine. When mooring at the pontoon bridge we realised that it was a long time since we arrived to a marina during daytime and found that it was very nice. We had sailed for about 50 hours and 264.7 Nm on 14-16/9-2015.

After relaxing the first day we rented a car and took a tour up the mountain Teide, 3900 meter. The last volcanic eruption was in 1906. It was a fabulous nature experience we would not have missed. The pine-tree forest and the different colours of the earth, cliffs, and fauna al the way up the mountain.

The last day was spent waking around the city Santa Cruz.

Saturday the 19/9 we stated of for Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, our final destination on the first part of, what we hope will be our, around the world sailing tour.

 

 

 

Ilha da Madeira

Next challenge, and the longest jet, was to sail from Lagos Algarve to “Ilha da Madeira” the Portuguese rocky island, famous for its many flowers and good temperature all year long, far out in the Atlantic ocean,  situated 510 Nm away. The ZyGrib file said that we would have NW winds and not to much, for the next three days,that was 8-10 September, so perfect for us. We started out of Lagos with absolutely no wind at all, so we had to go out for motor until wind and swells turned up. We sat sail after 1½ hour, main and asymmetric spinnaker, and sailed for half an hour so. Not enough wind but large swells.

We did not see any other ships but a cargo-ship but luckily a lot of dolphins visited us. Finally at 16:30 we got wind and sat main and asymmetric spinnaker until 17:00 upwind so jib instead of spinnaker. We got the best 24 h measurement jet, 192 Nm , obtained between first and second night sailing with main and asymmetric spinnaker.

A lot of stars in the sky and sometimes, late night, a beautiful tiny moon made the long nights easy to overcome. The threatening black clouds, together with the sundown, were amazing and happily for us they did not give any rain or to much wind. From now we sailed for sail until we were close to land and on the third day we pooled out the asymmetric spinnaker to windward with the spinnaker pool.

On The fourth day sailing Lars caught the first Gould Mackerel ever, after changing blink. The fish tasted great in the evening! It was quit comfortable sailing so we could start the gen-set and bake some Danish rye-bread. We sailed 510 Nm on three days and 14 hours and 40 minutes.

In the middle of the night we got sight of the black rocky island Madeira with fabulous light cascades along the coast. After a few hours we were moored at an empty pontoon in the Marina da Quinta Lorde. We were woken up next morning at 9 a clock by three harbour attendees helping us to move to a better place to moor.

After having bought very nice bred at the bar for breakfast, we relaxed and got some more sleep. It was a rainy day so relaxing the rest of the day.

We took the local bus next morning to Funchal city and it was a very exiting road trip on the mountain op and down in frightening speed. Getting of the bus on the avenida along the harbour we met a Swedish sailor couple, Ann-Marie and Micke,  We had coffee with them and a nice talk about sailing around the world. They did that a few years ago in there Najad sailing boat, Ellos.  A tour uptown for lunch and shopping at the big supermarket was on the program before the bus took us back to the beautiful but remote Marina da Quinta Lorde.

Next morning we took of for España and The Canarian Island Teneriffe and the city Santa Cruz. We were leaving Portugal after sailing around there for three weeks and three days enjoying it immensely.