Time used 6:55 h, Distant 28.5 NM, SOG 4.0 avg, 5.2 max, TWA 99.7, TWS in knots 9 avg, 15.4 max
Sail out of Teavanui, Pass Bora Bora, 8:30. We past by, the beautiful island, Maupiti after 7 hours sailing at 15:30 mostly because of late arrival but also very ruff current in the narrow pass. We continue to Suwarrow. and had another 7 days to go.
Time used 6 h, Distant 25 NM, SOG 4.1 avg, 6.1 max, TWA 173, TWS in knots 9 avg, 15 max
At seven in the morning we sail out of the beautiful bay Hurepiti with course to Bora Bora. Dolphins are playing when we pass the reef. Jib up but motor still on. Sunshine high swells and up to 15 knots. We sail in to Bora Bora threw Teavanui Pass and sail down south to the coral garden. We take the dingy to the reef and swim around. There are a lot of fish and fresh corals. We drift snorkeling back to Alexandra. After that we took the dingy in to the famous Bloody Mary restaurant and, off cause, I had a very tasty Bloody Mary.
Next day we sailed up north west to the Bora Bora Yacht Club and got a mooring boy there but not for free. Here we could relax and get things done. Lars shift a seal on Westerbeke but unfortunately it did not help the generator to start running. He also secured the crack on David-er by casting carbon fiber on. Also buying a lot of motor oil because we still have a leak of diesel into the motor oil for the Yanmar main motor.
We had a nice 3 km walk to town and after provisioning the last day the supermarket brought us back for free with all our bags filled up. At the police station, central of town, we could easily clear out of French Polynesia. They even helped us with some photo copies to use when buying gas before we left. The last evening in FP we took farewell by having a nice meal of Poisson Cru at the Bora Bora Yacht Club.
We sailed early in the morning and stopped at the TOP gas station to fill up with tax-free diesel. Also fill up with water because without the generator running we can not run the water-maker. It went fine and we were on our way towards Maupiti there we wanted to stop for one night if we came early and the current was not to strong. We said goodbye to Lucas from Kernobi SE and Lady Amety from Australia were also there.
Time used 8:30 h, Distance 34 NM, SOG 4.7 avg, 8 max, TWA 143, TWS in knots 14.7 avg, 28.5 max
At six o´clock in the morning we sail out of the pass, Avamoa at Fare. We had a lot of wind so jib alone. A squall hit us on the way threw the pass between Tahaá and Raiatea. We were lucky to come threw so it was not so bad. We had to tack threw the sound and we meet with a cargo-ship so quite exiting tour. Slowly we got better visibility so we could enjoy the coast of Tahaá. Finally, at 14:30, we reached the Baie de Tapuamu and find a village mooring boy there. The french boat Toomai, with the family we met on Fati Hiva, was there and we got to talk with them later on.
After a quiet evening relaxing on Alexandra we had a busy next day with visiting a Rom distillery, the village for fresh baguettes and taking the dingy out snorkeling at the coral garden.
Also Lars book us for a tour next day starting at Vanilla tour in Baie de Hurepiti so we were up early in the morning and sailed to the bay were the mooring was included in the price. Touring around in a land-rover with four German sailors and Noah, the son of the founder of Vanilla tour, was great. We got to know a lot about vanilla men also other plants, trees and fruits on the island. Also how to make roof out of palm tree leaves.
Time used 17:50 h, Distant 87.4 NM, SOG 4.2 avg, 8.2 max, TWA 99.7, TWS in knots 10.4 avg, 24 max
It was not a very pleasant over night sail to Huahine. The autopilot did not work properly so we had to hand-steer a part of the way. We had a lot of wind so stay sail during night. We sailed in threw the south pass, Avapihi, at 10 o’clock in the morning. Al mooring boys were taken and the wind was strong so we did not leave Alexandra during the day. We had to leave for Tahaá the next day, unfortunately, so we did not see much of Huahine. A fisherman came by thought and sold us four nice lobsters.
Time used 4 h, Distance 19.3 NM, SOG 4.5 avg 5.8 max, TWA 111.4, TWS in knots 9.7 avg 16,2 max
At 8 o’clock in the morning we sail to neighbor harbor with jib alone. We had the island in site all the way. Moorea is formed as an equi-lateral triangle and have 8 NM on the northern side, which is cut by the two deep bays Opunohu and Cook´s Bay. We pas the entrance to the beautiful Cook´s bay for to drop anchor north of the even more beautiful Opunohu Bay close to the big Manta-rays and underwater Tikis.
At 8 o’clock next morning we take the dingy to the place were the famous manta-rays use to be and we got very good contact with them. Amazing that they wanted to come so close. We did not have to have sardines with us to give them.
The underwater Tikis were really too deep down for me to see clearly but Lars took some dives down with the go-pro so got some pictures.
A short trip too the fisherman’s village were there time for before we had to leave for Huahine, 3another island in the Society Island group of French Polynesia, at 17 h.
We arrived at the guest bridge on a Sunday morning and did not get a tally card until next morning when the gate was opened by another sailor. We could have taken the dingy in but we were too lazy.
From our cockpit on Alexandra we were entertained by all the people passing by in the, very long stretched, beautiful park, “Jardins de Paofai“. People were walking, jogging, cycling, per-cure, relaxing on the grass, having lunch brake or meetings, birthday for the child, playing at one of the many playing grounds. Outrigger canoes were a big hit and every evening after work the bay were filled up with them, especially the ones for six paddler. The teams competed and you could here them shouting. Every paddler had there own wooden paddle with them.
The park have two large monuments. One made out of wood remembering the people that died because of the nuclear testing at Muroroa atoll. The other is a stone with the date of French Polynesian independence engraved.
Every day we walked through the park to the magazine Champion (tiny Carrefour) for provisioning for sailing out to the not so populated islands in the Society Island group of French Polynesia. We could get french cheese and paté but it was expensive. If you by local food it is not so expensive and it was also possible to get it on the market.
The private Pearl Museum, Robert Wan, showed how they make the pearls and the historic background. No entry fee and you had the opportunity to bye pearls of all kinds and prizes.
We also visited the Cathedral on Place Notre Dame were they have a beautiful sculpture in wood of Maria carrying Jesus with a breadfruit on his stomach, witch is a very typical church decoration for French Polynesia.
In the evening we enjoyed the street kitchen at Place Vaiete, a couple of times. Not only for the food, like poissoncru and crep, but seeing the local family’s and a few tourist relaxing in a nice atmosphere. A band of very old people were there playing every time. It is amazing that the mall change character in an hour every evening. Also 3 Barosso restaurant and bar have there own brewery and the excellent dark bear, amber can be recommended.
5/9 Richard and Renee our mechanics dismount the cylinder head of Westerbeke to be renovated, and get two new valves. Lars mounted a new cooling water pump for the fridge that uses much less energy so very good!
6/9 Richard take us with him to Taravao on the south east coast of Tahiti and Patric who together with Richard pressure tested the injection pipes. Afterwards we got a nice Tahiti round trip passing “Trou du Souffleur” the blow hole.
While waiting for Richard to finish the job with the Westerbeke generator we did the following.
7/9 Anchor delivered and Lars mount it to the anchor winch. Bus til Marina Tahina for to bye col-fiber mat and hypoxy for to repair head foil.
10/9 Four of the six battery to 24 volt over heated!
10-11/9 Lars repaired the head foil.
12/9 Main and jib sail and a halyard from Elvstrøm sail Denmark delivered on the bridge by UPS after paying 1000 DKK to the agent but no tax – so good..
13/9 Early in the morning with lesser wind we hoist the new main sail and in the afternoon we got the jib on the furler.
14/9 Richard passes by. Have problems with his mobile.
16/9 Mast Pulpit BB and SB mounted with sika flex. Renovate lockers to drawers and cabinets.
17/9 The washing-machine is taken out in peaces. In the afternoon we took a long walk to Fare Ute to buy a lot of filters to the machines at Sopom.
19/9 Four new batteries to 24 volt replace the six.
21/9 Richard and Renee mount the renovated cylinder head on Westerbeke.
23/9 In the morning Richard test electric fault and diesel distribution. Westerbeke does not start. Richard come back a, couple of hours later, and rinse the high pressure pump and now the Westerbeke start.
23/9 Went to the post office and sent a package to our grandson in Denmark and met Sasha and Rodger from Ednbal. They advised us about the coral garden in Tahaa and also the ice-cream / sorbet bar in Papeete. Thank you so much. We hope you got safe to Gambier and back.
Time 1 day 22 h 57 min., NM 246,3, SOG 4.4 kn avg,. 7.6 kn max., TWA 222, TWS 13.4 kn avg. 22.8 kn max.
At 10:30 17/8 2016 we sail out of the pass at Fakarava north with coarse set to Tahiti. We sat main and jib and kept them up all the way. That should be the last time sailing with the old sails. We had the wind from aft so good sailing. SSB net, making youtube movie on Nurse Sharks and baking bred were there time with. Maria suffer from to bad wounds on the left leg and right wrist but hoped that there were a good pharmacy in Arue.
Friday the 19/8 at 9:30, after passing point Venus, we dropped anchor in the beautiful Arue Bay. The holding was not good so we sailed closer to land and after to trial advised by Rodger in Ednbal, we were safe for anchor.
We were advised by Richard on BigFish to contact a diesel motor specialist (Richard Iehl) in Arue but could not reach him by sat-phone or mobile. Lars took the dingy to shore and on Carrefour got a local telephone sim card. It was then Friday afternoon and not possible to reach anybody by phone.
Next day we went to the very large Carrefour, 7 minutes away from the harbour, and got some nice bred and cheese. Our anchor does not hold very good so when talking to the harbour we got allowed to stay for four nights. It was fantastic to be in the little charming harbour and not be worrying about electricity and water, that was included in very reasonable harbour fee.
Monday 22/8 at 8 o’clock Lars got contact with Richard and he came 17:30 to here about our problems with the Yanmar motor and the Westerbeke. Also he took the three diesel injectors to Westerbeke with him for repair. It was a very good birthday present! Before that I was treated with a nice breakfast and birthday present from Lars. Also nice late breakfast, cheese burger, on the harbour café.
Next day the oil cooler to Yanmar was disassembled. The day after, 24/8, we took a bus to Papeete and there getting a new cover for the Yamaha motor (thanks to Christi and Tasha) and a look around on the nice little town. We had a visit by Andreas from Mellifera in the evening. He had gotten a crew to NZ and was happy for that.
Richard came bye on the morning 25/8 and told us that the oil cooler should bee repaired and also the diesel injector to Westerbeke.
26/8 Andreas came by and got the NZ maps on a stick and so did Jeff from Mezzaluna the next day. Also start on Eosin-Coper cure on my wounds after Lars had been to the Arue Pharmacy. I started a penicillin cure the 29/8 after advice from Songhui. Katie and Jeff came by for coffee and nice too get too now them a little better.
Monday the 29/8 we had to leave the harbour because a catamaran from Papeete had reserved the mooring in advance. We had no motor capacity so we got dragged out by the harbour. It was not nice to be out there, knowing that if Alexandra were dragging by the anchor, we could not do anything. Nice to know, though, that the boats around us like Mezzaluna, EyeCandy and Maluhia would help us if necessary and so they did later on. We dared to go in and have a nice Pot-Luck dinner with the other sailors at the café (Monday closed) in the evening.
30/8 Lars mounted the three diesel injectors to Westerbeke that have been repaired but the generator did not start. Lars got dinner from street kitchen. No compression in some of the three cylinders says Richard the 31/8. We are dragging against the reef. Next day a lot of wind on the anchorage. Lars set me of on land so I could go and get some food on Carrefour because he did not want to leave Alexandra. Instead we got nice companies, from neighbour sailors, to a sundowner with newly bought cold beer!
13:00 2/9 Richard and Renee came with the oil-cooler and mounted it. Now the Yanmar motor runs!!! The next day there were still a lot of wind on the anchorage and after David and Kim had checked that our place is empty we sailed into the harbour and there were Andrew, David and Jeff to take the lines. We stayed there until Sunday afternoon when we could sail to Papeete Marina after Lars had mounted four repaired (thanks Hans) diesel injector to the Yanmar motor. Now the motor run and with much lesser dark smoke. On the short tour to Papeete we saw a whale sticking up several times!
Time 10 h 40 min., NM 51.2, SOG 4.3 kn avg,. 6.9 kn max., TWA 128, TWS 13.0 kn avg. 6.9 kn max.
Anchor up and out of the pass 6:30 and set main and jib. Nice sailing so time for Lars to do a haircut on Maria and BCD diving vest service. At 16h local time we sail into the south pass of Fakarava atoll. With help from Aislado we got a mooring on a very beautiful place. Sharks and other fish are swimming around Alexandra and the reef with corals and a lot of fish is close bye.
Next day we take the dingy to the Tetamanu diving centre and Tetamanu village close to the south pass and Lars make an appointment to dive next morning with Marc. We had a nice walk around the island were you can see ruins of buildings from times were more people lived in Tetamanu. In the afternoon we took a short ride with the dingy to the reef and swam around there looking at black tipped reef sharks and a lot of colorful fish in different sizes. Also beautiful corals were here.
Next morning Lars sailed down in the dingy to the diving centre and got a nice dive with Marc and others through the pass, drifting with the incoming current. There were hundreds of black tipped sharks there. They dived on 20 meres depth and drifted about 30 minutes to reach the diving centre.
Back on Alexandra, 8:30, we released the mooring-boy and sailed towards Fakarava North.
Fakarava north 12/8 – 17/8 2016
Time 4 h 53 min., NM 28.5, SOG 4.7 kn avg,. 5.9 kn max., TWA 144, TWS 11.4 kn avg. 16.5 kn max.
We sat main and jib and went for sail the whole day. There were problems with the motor so it should not be used until when dropping the anchor. Every other lateral or cardinal marks were missing so taking the coral passage we had to be awake. We took the passage for not to come close to the pearl farmers installations. We were passing several resorts so there were a lot to look at. Getting to the north pass we so a lot of boats there that we new and it was so nice. Also moving to a mooring boy later on made our stay here much better. Finding WiFi, water and food were most important because we could not make water when the gen-set was not working and also not turning on the fridge and freezer so we had to buy fresh food every day. Filtered rainwater we could get from a big cistern in the harbor. Shopping in Rotoava village was difficult because there were closet on Sunday. Monday was also closed because it was a religious holiday. We visited Fakarava Yacht-service several times and got WiFi, laundry and filling up with gas,. The pink café was popular for WiFi and lunch for us sailors. One restaurant was open only Friday, Saturday and Sunday and there we got good food and nice companies. Also invited to sun-downer on the beautiful New Zealand Yacht Exit Strategy.
We herd that, at the resort, we could swim with Nurse-sharks and at the second trial we so several sharks on very close distance. Thanks to Terry and Cindy.
Supplies off-loaded in open sea outside the south passFakarava south TetamanuuRuins in TetamanuCemetary in TetamanuThe local church in TetamanuSharks at 20 m depth at Tamakohua South PassBlack tipt Shark at the divecenterPension TetamanuDive center in TetamanuFakarava Yacht serviceFakarava Yacht serviceFakarava Yacht serviceAt the pearlfarmPearl farm hinano Hellberg Fakarava NorthGunther Hellberg demonstrateGunther Hellberg demonstrateGunther Hellberg demonstrateGunther Hellberg demonstrateAt the pearlfarmBijoouterie Hinano PearlsBijoouterie Hinano PearlsHinanoPearl center beachParabol at the postofficeCelebrating a Katolik holidayCelebrating a Katolik holidayThe Church in Fakarava northThe Church in Fakarava north
The 6/8 at 7 o’clock in the morning, on slack time, we sail out threw the reef at Raroia north pass and 7:18 we sat the main and sailed, the 143 NM,towardsthe atoll Tahanea. Very nice sailing because we finally could sail downwind. There are time for bred baking and reading during the day and in the evening we had a beautiful new moon and several planets like Jupiter to look at.The next day we should sail in, threw the pass, at 13 h and had problems getting the speed down, for not to come to early. We ended up with a half furled in stay-sail and arrived just on time, to go threw the pass, in an easy way.
Tahanea is a beautiful atoll with only to houses were people leave when they collect nuts and fruits and a lot of coral reef with fish. Around Alexandra, on anchor, you can and see sharks swimming.
We took the dingy to the shore and snorkel´d. There were fresh corals, a lot of nice coloured fish and our first black tipped shark.
The catamaran “BigFish” was on anchor too and we got advice, from he captain Richard, of a mechanic in Papeete.
We had also a visit from Andreas, from the boat Mellifera, that we first met in Fatu Hiva and we decided to go snorkelling with the ingoing tide and so we did that afternoon. Lars had the dingy tied around his hip and the GoPro in the hand so he got some nice film. It was beautiful with a lot of healthy corals and fish, especially a big Mantarey.
We had a nice view to the village from the anchorage and took the dingy in to visit a couple of times. We saw the young locals coming in with fish and a group of young boys learning to play on the ancient Polynesia´n drum. The day after an aircraft landed and al of the older children left the island for to go to school in Makemo or Papeete, now when the summer holiday was over. Unfortunately Lars had to use a lot of his time on the Westebeeke generator that did not want to start. Al filters and oil were changed but still it did not run. So now we save on water and hope to manage until we come to Papeete. There we can get three new dysse instead of the once we have and hope that the problem is solved.