Time 00:46 h, NM 6.6 SOG 4.3 kn avg 6.0 kn max, TWA 180.9, TWS 11.2 kn avg 19.6 kn max
After filling up with diesel, at the big key used for the cargo/passenger ship, we sailed to Daniels Bay. From there we hoped to be able to make the famous water fall tour, to see the worlds third highest waterfall. The Hakatea Bay was beautiful and the swells were not so high. We had a relaxing evening on Alexandra. The next day we took the dingy up the river to the village. We met Paul who, we herd, should resembles the latter King, working on his land. When he goes to Nuku-Hiva he ride on his horse or take a water taxi. He gave us some tip but did not tell us how whet it was further up. Anyway it was a nice walk and yes we did not reach the water fall. Very dirty we turned back after passing threw the first wet area. On the walk back we stopped at Monique house and bought bananas and at the first house bread fruit and papaya. During the night, at four a-clock, we had to re-anchor, even if our anchor hold, because a catamaran came to close to us. but.
Time 18:02 h, NM 89, SOG 4.9 kn avg 8.6 kn max, TWA 134, TWS 11.0 kn avg 26.8 kn max
The 20/7 2016 at 16:30 we launch the two anchor and unfortunately the good old stern anchor did not come up because the anchor rope went of. We should not have trusted it…. Hopefully we do not need stern anchor before Papeete and can get a new one there and of cause a new rope too. The swells were high, out of the bay, going for engine and the wind disappear when leeward of Hiva-Oa. Main sail and stay sail was launched after 1½ hour. After one hour we start the motor when no wind. After 1½ hour we stopped the motor and sat sail again. We had shifting wind strength during night. In the morning, 9:30, we sail into the bay of Taiohae.
We had some nice days in Taiohae, shopping good French food and getting nice lunch like “poissoncru” when you order fish at the harbour café. Yacht-service at the harbour had excellent wifi, for only 300 CFP (5 kr) per day so Lars could upload a lot of pictures. Also a good meeting place for sailors. Nice walk along the bay to the cathedral and also up the hill to the hardware-store to get important grease for the rudder stock.
First sight Nuku HivaAnchor bay TaiohaeVillage TaiohaeMain street after rainAlternativ way of drying clothesRed path leading to the CathedralEntering the Cathedral areaCathedralPraying placeCockCafé/restaurent close to the harbour
Time 8:08 h, NM 45.6, SOG 6.62 kn avg 10 kn max, TWS 4.5 kn avg 22.6 kn max
We sailed out of the beautiful bay at 8 a-clock and the direction was NE (79). Out of the bay and one hour for motor we sat mainsail with two reef and jib. Later on stay-sail. The swells were large. After 4 hour there were no wind so started motor. After 1½ hour main and stay-sail again.
Almost immediate, when sailing into the anchorage, we saw MariAnnII with John and Julie on board and that was so nice to see them after have been taking with them on the SSB radio during the crossing.
We drop anchor and also stern anchor in Tahauku bay, Hiva-Oa. The swells were uncomfortable but with stern anchor we were better of. We had red that they use it in this bay, behind the big brake water that is occupied, every other week, by the important cargo/passenger ship.
The peace were suddenly broken when a boat on SB side wanted us to move because he did not have a stern anchor and because of that maybe would come to close to us. We were tired and said we could move tomorrow but he got angry and moved himself out in the swells on the entrance to the anchorage. Early next morning we moved further into the bay and he moved surprisingly to the brake water that was reserved for the big cargo-ship and for filling up with diesel. The problems with anchoring did not stop with this. A French sailor came around in his dingy and sad that we had to move further into the bay because he did not have a stern anchor and needed the space and because he had an aluminium boat he was not afraid of leaving his boat the whole day. Lars told him that he were not afraid because he also had an aluminium boat. Anyway we move again, and it was really bad because it was Saturday and we had to reach immigration/custom at the gendarmerie, wifi and supermarket before they close for siesta 11:30 and maybe not open again until Monday morning.
We hurried in to, the very run down dingy doc, and took the 3 km long, but very beautiful, walk in to the very nice little town, Atuona. At the gendarmerie they took everything with a smile and paperwork went therefore fast compared to what we are used to. Post office were we wanted to by a wifi card and the supermarket were now closed but the The Cyber Café (tipped by Keith from New Zeeland) was opened so we could get in contact with our two sons in Denmark after being away several weeks, crossing the Pacific. It was almost like sitting in there home and good wifi. Also herd from Keith that they had a sport tournament event on the beautiful green grounds near the bay so we went down there and got an excellent, not too expensive, lunch. On the way back to the anchorage a nice local man stopped several time and wandered if we were OK and finally took us up in his four wheel drive car. He handed a delicious sweet pay and a bottle of water around. He were going out fishing with a boat on the harbour.
Sunday morning we had lots of rain but it cleared up and we had John from MaryAnnII on an afternoon visit.
Monday morning we went into the village again and went to the post-office to send a confirmation, from custom and immigration to Papeete custom and immigration, that we have been cleared in to French Polynesia for a total of 90 days. Here we bought a MANA SPOT Wi-Fi card (did not work on Hiva-Oa). Afterwards we went to the Gauguin museum and saw local copy pictures of Gauguin. Also his atelier, and in the entrance some photo of the Swedish language researcher and adventurer´er BengtDanielsson who studied the old Polynesia´n language and wrote it down, we visited just before the siesta. A good supermarket, recommended by John, had some wonderful baguette, cheese also from sheep and goat for Lars and we could not wait to get some taste of it. After a snack outside the supermarket with the excuse that it was raining we took of for a 3 km walk to the harbour. Lucky this time too we were taken up, when we had reached the hill, by three young men on their way to the harbour.
Tuesday it is raining and it is very whet trying to get up the hill to the yacht service and Wi-Fi. Here we met lots of people we new from Fato-Hiva. The next day is not lesser whet but we will try the net on the hill and by some nice frozen lam shops and burgers in the harbour store, before we sail to the third Marquesas island.
Fatu-Hiva, Hanavave Bay local name, Baie des Verges original name, Baie des Vierges missionary name 12-15/7 2016
After prolonging the anchor chain with a strong rope we could relax a little and had agood night sleep. The swells in the bay were strong and wind up to 20 knots so we did not leave Alexandra the next day but stayed on-board. The bay was absolutely marvelous so it was not a punishment. It was Frederiks birthday so we called him on the Iridium telethon. The old halyard came out of the mast and the reserve put in their place by Lars. The next day (after setting stern anchor) we took the dingy to land and had a walk on the main street and found out that without local money we could not by anything in the nice little magazine. It was OK because we still had food on- board. After a rest on-board we took the dingy in again for the waterfall tour. After taking several wrong turns we finally reached the very beautiful waterfall and got a swim underneath. Unfortunately I got a skratch below my right knee and suffered from it a long time because of infection. In the evening there was a final show, in a competition between the islands of Marquesas, in traditional song and dance. To reach the show place we had to wade over a river in darkness and luckily Lars had a head lamp with him and we had to sailors, familiar with the place, with us. It was a very impressive show and also a plus that only traditional language (Tahitian or other?) were used. A lot of people from the island was there and a few sailors.
Early next morning we stood up and prepared for sailing to Hiva-Oa, the next Marqueas island.