Author Archives: lars

Nuko Hiva

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Nuku-Hiva, Taiohae Bay 20-27/7 2016

Time 18:02 h, NM 89, SOG 4.9 kn avg 8.6 kn max, TWA 134, TWS 11.0 kn avg 26.8 kn max

The 20/7 2016 at 16:30 we launch the two anchor and unfortunately the good old stern anchor did not come up because the anchor rope went of. We should not have trusted it…. Hopefully we do not need stern anchor before Papeete and can get a new one there and of cause a new rope too. The swells were high, out of the bay, going for engine and the wind disappear when leeward of Hiva-Oa. Main sail and stay sail was launched after 1½ hour. After one hour we start the motor when no wind. After 1½ hour we stopped the motor and sat sail again. We had shifting wind strength during night. In the morning, 9:30, we sail into the bay of Taiohae.

We had some nice days in Taiohae, shopping good French food and getting nice lunch like “poisson cru” when you order fish at the harbour café. Yacht-service at the harbour had excellent wifi, for only 300 CFP (5 kr) per day so Lars could upload a lot of pictures. Also a good meeting place for sailors. Nice walk along the bay to the cathedral and also up the hill to the hardware-store to get important grease for the rudder stock.

Hiva Oa

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Hiva-Oa, Tahauku Bay 15-21/7 2016

Time 8:08 h, NM 45.6, SOG 6.62 kn avg 10 kn max, TWS 4.5 kn avg 22.6 kn max

We sailed out of the beautiful bay at 8 a-clock and the direction was NE (79). Out of the bay and one hour for motor we sat mainsail with two reef and jib. Later on stay-sail. The swells were large. After 4 hour there were no wind so started motor. After 1½ hour main and stay-sail again.

Almost immediate, when sailing into the anchorage, we saw MariAnnII with John and Julie on board and that was so nice to see them after have been taking with them on the SSB radio during the crossing.

We drop anchor and also stern anchor in Tahauku bay, Hiva-Oa. The swells were uncomfortable but with stern anchor we were better of. We had red that they use it in this bay, behind the big brake water that is occupied, every other week, by the important cargo/passenger ship.

The peace were suddenly broken when a boat on SB side wanted us to move because he did not have a stern anchor and because of that maybe would come to close to us. We were tired and said we could move tomorrow but he got angry and moved himself out in the swells on the entrance to the anchorage. Early next morning we moved further into the bay and he moved surprisingly to the brake water that was reserved for the big cargo-ship and for filling up with diesel. The problems with anchoring did not stop with this. A French sailor came around in his dingy and sad that we had to move further into the bay because he did not have a stern anchor and needed the space and because he had an aluminium boat he was not afraid of leaving his boat the whole day. Lars told him that he were not afraid because he also had an aluminium boat. Anyway we move again, and it was really bad because it was Saturday and we had to reach immigration/custom at the gendarmerie, wifi and supermarket before they close for siesta 11:30 and maybe not open again until Monday morning.

We hurried in to, the very run down dingy doc, and took the 3 km long, but very beautiful, walk in to the very nice little town, Atuona. At the gendarmerie they took everything with a smile and paperwork went therefore fast compared to what we are used to. Post office were we wanted to by a wifi card and the supermarket were now closed but the The Cyber Café (tipped by Keith from New Zeeland) was opened so we could get in contact with our two sons in Denmark after being away several weeks, crossing the Pacific. It was almost like sitting in there home and good wifi. Also herd from Keith that they had a sport tournament event on the beautiful green grounds near the bay so we went down there and got an excellent, not too expensive, lunch. On the way back to the anchorage a nice local man stopped several time and wandered if we were OK and finally took us up in his four wheel drive car. He handed a delicious sweet pay and a bottle of water around. He were going out fishing with a boat on the harbour.

Sunday morning we had lots of rain but it cleared up and we had John from MaryAnnII on an afternoon visit.

Monday morning we went into the village again and went to the post-office to send a confirmation, from custom and immigration to Papeete custom and immigration, that we have been cleared in to French Polynesia for a total of 90 days. Here we bought a MANA SPOT Wi-Fi card (did not work on Hiva-Oa). Afterwards we went to the Gauguin museum and saw local copy pictures of Gauguin. Also his atelier, and in the entrance some photo of the Swedish language researcher and adventurer´er Bengt Danielsson who studied the old Polynesia´n language and wrote it down, we visited just before the siesta. A good supermarket, recommended by John, had some wonderful baguette, cheese also from sheep and goat for Lars and we could not wait to get some taste of it. After a snack outside the supermarket with the excuse that it was raining we took of for a 3 km walk to the harbour. Lucky this time too we were taken up, when we had reached the hill, by three young men on their way to the harbour.

Tuesday it is raining and it is very whet trying to get up the hill to the yacht service and Wi-Fi. Here we met lots of people we new from Fato-Hiva. The next day is not lesser whet but we will try the net on the hill and by some nice frozen lam shops and burgers in the harbour store, before we sail to the third Marquesas island.

Fatu Hiva

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Fatu-Hiva, Hanavave Bay local name, Baie des Verges original name, Baie des Vierges missionary name 12-15/7 2016

After prolonging the anchor chain with a strong rope we could relax a little and had a good night sleep. The swells in the bay were strong and wind up to 20 knots so we did not leave Alexandra the next day but stayed on-board. The bay was absolutely marvelous so it was not a punishment. It was Frederiks birthday so we called him on the Iridium telethon. The old halyard came out of the mast and the reserve put in their place by Lars. The next day (after setting stern anchor) we took the dingy to land and had a walk on the main street and found out that without local money we could not by anything in the nice little magazine. It was OK because we still had food on- board. After a rest on-board we took the dingy in again for the waterfall tour. After taking several wrong turns we finally reached the very beautiful waterfall and got a swim underneath. Unfortunately I got a skratch below my right knee and suffered from it a long time because of infection. In the evening there was a final show, in a competition between the islands of Marquesas, in traditional song and dance. To reach the show place we had to wade over a river in darkness and luckily Lars had a head lamp with him and we had to sailors, familiar with the place, with us. It was a very impressive show and also a plus that only traditional language (Tahitian or other?) were used. A lot of people from the island was there and a few sailors.

Early next morning we stood up and prepared for sailing to Hiva-Oa, the next Marqueas island.

Pacific Crossing – Sailing to Fatu Hiva

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Pacific Ocean crossing From Santa Cruz Galapagos to Fatu Hiva. Marquises, French Polynesia 22/6-12/7 2016
20 days and 13h 39 min., 3027.2 NM, best distance per day 200.6 NM, COG avg. 6.3 max 9.3, TWS avg. 14.09 TWS max. 28.8 knots.

Due to our warned out sails we could not sail the way we wanted. We did not reef the poorly repaired main sail so ivor up, without reef, or down under the whole crossing. Our asymmetric spinnaker had a serious damage from the ARC-Atlantic Crossing were we, with 6 person on-board, maximized our speed with the sails. We have not been able to get it repaired.

We had lot of wind al the way but hoped for lesser wind so Lars could go down and cut the fishing-line, we caught a few days after leaving Galapagos, free of the propeller.

Our philosophy about the crossing was to have as good conditions on board as possible though we were just to persons, and not look at the time being spent.

The SSB radio were on, several times a day, talking to Karsten in Panama (thank you so much for weather forcast in Danish), Ben in Panama on The Pacific net and our own created group with MaryAnnII and Coolrunnings.

Sometimes on days with lesser swells you moved around cocking, cleaning, baking bred and cookies, washing clothes you felt relaxed and enjoying being out there. Lars finally got started playing the guitar and I enjoyed listening. Also more detailed plans for the next 4 years of sailing were there time for.

Repairer on the way: With GoPro film the fishing line on the propeller 5/7. Measurement for new sail to Thomas 4/7, strop to main sail sawed back on 5/7, new comutato coal on cooling water pump, problems with furling the jib 9/7, new (old) motor to fresh water pump, servicing the generator so it could run again 12/7.

We had dolphins visiting us a couple of times and when we came closer to land the beautiful boobies came flying.

Cargoship from Kiribiri passes Alexandra 27/6. Fishing-boats from Korea 10/7 and also fishing-boats from Japan and China are seen..

On the 7/7 we had a beautiful Mai Mai on the hook but it managed to get away. Finally on the 10/7 we get a tuna on the hook. It gave us to nice meals during the passage.

The 12/7 at 16h we tacked into the very beautiful bay of Hanavave, Fatu Hiva. We were met by sailors from the bay leaded by Tasha from Cheeki Monkey asking us if we needed help. We said that we had too sail in under sail and drop the anchor as we drop the mainsail. They did not like the spot we had chosen. Finally we reached the good spot, but when releasing the main halyard, it did not come down. The halyard was stack in the mast. Now we got al these nice people on board except Ryan that kept running his rib sidewise Alexandra. On third attempt to drop the anchor al went well and we were finally safely anchored in Marquises after over 20 days on the Pacific Ocean. Lost of thanks to al of you that helpt us.

Santa Cruz Again

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Santa Cruz 19/6-22/6 2016

Isabela to Santa Cruz 46.5 SM
We had to get back to Santa Cruz for to get Lars canon lens at DHL mandag 20/6 and Ivar on a plain home to Denmark 21/6. Measure for a new Elvsrøm mainsail and jib 20/6, inspecting the rig and getting diesel from the son of Irene. Nice street kitchen seafood plate were there time for the last evening with Ivar.

Isla Isabela

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Isla Isabela 13/6-19/6 2016

48 SM to Isla Isabela and the town Villamil

We take the dingy in to the, very run down, dingy dock and a long walk on the sandy road took us threw Villamil to the agent James at the café Booby-trap and there exchanges information for clearance, while enjoying a cup of coffee or cola and important good Wi-Fi. A short walk from the dingy-dock take us to Cocha y Perla, a little bay in the mangrove with a lot of fish, sea-lions, iguanas, turtles and penguins. There we snorkel for a while and I get caught by the current and get saved by Lars.

The next day we rent mountain-bicycles and have a nice ride to see flamingoes at Los Humedales, turtle breeding centre ”Centro de Crianza Arnaldo Tupiza”, and beaches like Playa del Amor with a lot of marine iguanas. At the latter Lars and I got a swim with some nice fish. Also Wi-Fi at Booby-trap before and after the bicycle ride.

At the anchorage Maria swim to a yellow boy but saw only some fish having a feast on the hall of Alexandra. Lars is having a scuba dive around Alexandra but the water is not clear enough. Ivar and Lars take a tour to Booby-trap for Wi-Fi and I enjoy being alone for a while. From the boat we can see a lot of animals in the water like penguins, sea-lions, turtles and boobies hunting for fish but they are al to far away.

Before leaving Isabela for Santa Cruz again we got contact with Coolrunnings a catamaran also on its way to Marquesses. We had contact with them for most time of the crossing on the SSB radio together with MaryAnnII.

Santa Cruz

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Isla Santa Cruz 8/6-13/6 2016

After a nice day of sailing jib and motor (43.4 NM, 6.4h, 5.5avg, 7.7max, wind 6.6avg 10.3max) we reached Isla Santa Cruz and Baya Academia, Puerto Ayora. Irene, Bolivars agent at Santa Cruz, came with the papers at 16 hour and we took a taxi-boat in to the city for a nice meal and wi-fi.

Darwin centre the next day was a nice waking tour from the harbour. On the way back to the village we find ODS a very find internet café serving cappuccino, fresh made fruit juice and yoghurt ice-cream per g. I had to sit with Darwin.

The next day we took a water-taxi across the harbour and a long walk took us to “Las Grietas” with to lava giant walls forming a tunnel with brackish water on top mixing with seawater deep down were we could snorkel and enjoy the fish in the could water. After that we stop at Playa de los Alemanes and snorkelled for a while in the flat not so clear water, looking at a lot of small fish.

A tour by taxi up north to los Gemelos with the huge volcanic craters, Lava Tunnels and El Chato were we could walk around with the giant tortoises. Back in town and after a 5$ budget lunch we had a nice fruit juice at Zayapa and a chat with the owner Liset.

Taxi to Tortuga Bay entrance and a long walk to the beach the next day. We were a little disappointed of the water that was muddy and unclear, but safe to bathe in. A little protected water hole had a lot of nice fish to look at. Due to the heavy swells and under current you could not bathe at the large beautiful beach that you pasted by to reach the other but surfers enjoyed it immense there.

San Cristobal

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San Cristobal 30/5-8/6 2016

After a good nights sleep we moved closer to the dingy dock with a hope to get lesser swells. Lars visited our agent Bolivar and got advice how to prepare for the clearance and the time for the groups arrival. We cleaned up and at 15 hour we had a visit of agent Bolivar, port captain, custom, immigration and health inspector. A diver inspected the hall and sad Alexandra was OK and the health lady inspected below deck. Coffey and cola was served and forms were filed and passports were stamped.

Together with the others we took a water-taxi in to the bridge with sea lions on the stairway. We went home to Bolevar were we were treated with very tasty Galapagos bananas. We had to stay on land for 3 h because of Alexandra being fumigated for cockroaches and other insects. Fumigator; 120 Volt. We have 12, 24, 220 Volt on Alexandra. It was a joke. At Casablanca we could get wifi for the first day in 8 days and celebrate that we finally reached Galapagos. When we got back on Alexandra the front window got cleaned up for old sika flex. On the bay arrived a cargo ship and a feeder ship was quickly on place to transport the cargo to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.

A long walk to the Centro de Interpretacion and Cerro Tijeretas (Tijeretas Hill) were we, on the cliffs hoped to see the frigate bird nesting but the nests were empty.

The main sail got piked up for repair by a not professional sail-maker in the morning and we took the dingy to a little beach at the military marine headquarters. The sea lions did not like us coming so we went ten meter out and dropped anchor. Here we could snorkel around and see a lot of fish and a big turtles that Lars and Maria followed for a while.

The next day, on a walk along the harbour, we saw the beautiful hermit crab and iguanas. We got good food on-board but also lobster and delicious cold fish soup in town.

Isla Espanola

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Isla Españiola tour with diving boat 6/6 2016

A one and a half hour tour to the island Españiola went quickly and at arrival we were al sailed in to land by a big rib from an other diving firm.

We saw Iguanas, Nascar Boobies, Blue-footed Boobies, Hermit crabs, Albatross, when waking around the island with our guide and dive master Santiago.

After a good lunch served on the boat we got into the water.

Scuba diving; Lars got Santiago as his “Body” and a Japanese couple dived too. They so shark and various fish on the reef and went down to 15 meter.

The rest of us, 9 people, snorkel’s to the reef together with some guys from the diving centre, one with an orange safety ring with him so he was easy to see. It was quite clear and we so a great variety of fish. Sum of us so a shark.

The day before we left for Isabela we got diesel, from jerry-cans sailed out by agent Bolivars son, for 3$ per gallon.

Going to Galapagos

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23-30/5 2016, 7 days and 13,5h, 1016 NM, best distance per 24h153,5 NM, Speed Avg. 5.6 kts, Speed Max. 7.7 kts, TWS Avg. 10.7 kts, TWS Max. 22.1 kts.

Upwind sailing, with different wind and current strength al the way, and a leek of water threw the forward hatch to the anchor storage, because it was not closet correctly. We sailed with a combination of motor and different sail. The mainsail had a big rift that Lars and Ivar tried to repair in Balboa but unfortunately it did not hold in this tough conditions. Good things happened too. On the third day we were visited by a lot of dolphins, for the first time on the Pacific. Also close to San Cristobal we had a couple of whales passing by and several amazing large stingray jumping for us. Galapagos Boobies flue around Alexandra night and days the last 24 hour. At 21 h 30/5 we sailed in to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal and dropped the anchor.