Pacific Crossing – Sailing to Fatu Hiva

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Pacific Ocean crossing From Santa Cruz Galapagos to Fatu Hiva. Marquises, French Polynesia 22/6-12/7 2016
20 days and 13h 39 min., 3027.2 NM, best distance per day 200.6 NM, COG avg. 6.3 max 9.3, TWS avg. 14.09 TWS max. 28.8 knots.

Due to our warned out sails we could not sail the way we wanted. We did not reef the poorly repaired main sail so ivor up, without reef, or down under the whole crossing. Our asymmetric spinnaker had a serious damage from the ARC-Atlantic Crossing were we, with 6 person on-board, maximized our speed with the sails. We have not been able to get it repaired.

We had lot of wind al the way but hoped for lesser wind so Lars could go down and cut the fishing-line, we caught a few days after leaving Galapagos, free of the propeller.

Our philosophy about the crossing was to have as good conditions on board as possible though we were just to persons, and not look at the time being spent.

The SSB radio were on, several times a day, talking to Karsten in Panama (thank you so much for weather forcast in Danish), Ben in Panama on The Pacific net and our own created group with MaryAnnII and Coolrunnings.

Sometimes on days with lesser swells you moved around cocking, cleaning, baking bred and cookies, washing clothes you felt relaxed and enjoying being out there. Lars finally got started playing the guitar and I enjoyed listening. Also more detailed plans for the next 4 years of sailing were there time for.

Repairer on the way: With GoPro film the fishing line on the propeller 5/7. Measurement for new sail to Thomas 4/7, strop to main sail sawed back on 5/7, new comutato coal on cooling water pump, problems with furling the jib 9/7, new (old) motor to fresh water pump, servicing the generator so it could run again 12/7.

We had dolphins visiting us a couple of times and when we came closer to land the beautiful boobies came flying.

Cargoship from Kiribiri passes Alexandra 27/6. Fishing-boats from Korea 10/7 and also fishing-boats from Japan and China are seen..

On the 7/7 we had a beautiful Mai Mai on the hook but it managed to get away. Finally on the 10/7 we get a tuna on the hook. It gave us to nice meals during the passage.

The 12/7 at 16h we tacked into the very beautiful bay of Hanavave, Fatu Hiva. We were met by sailors from the bay leaded by Tasha from Cheeki Monkey asking us if we needed help. We said that we had too sail in under sail and drop the anchor as we drop the mainsail. They did not like the spot we had chosen. Finally we reached the good spot, but when releasing the main halyard, it did not come down. The halyard was stack in the mast. Now we got al these nice people on board except Ryan that kept running his rib sidewise Alexandra. On third attempt to drop the anchor al went well and we were finally safely anchored in Marquises after over 20 days on the Pacific Ocean. Lost of thanks to al of you that helpt us.

Santa Cruz Again

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Santa Cruz 19/6-22/6 2016

Isabela to Santa Cruz 46.5 SM
We had to get back to Santa Cruz for to get Lars canon lens at DHL mandag 20/6 and Ivar on a plain home to Denmark 21/6. Measure for a new Elvsrøm mainsail and jib 20/6, inspecting the rig and getting diesel from the son of Irene. Nice street kitchen seafood plate were there time for the last evening with Ivar.

Isla Isabela

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Isla Isabela 13/6-19/6 2016

48 SM to Isla Isabela and the town Villamil

We take the dingy in to the, very run down, dingy dock and a long walk on the sandy road took us threw Villamil to the agent James at the café Booby-trap and there exchanges information for clearance, while enjoying a cup of coffee or cola and important good Wi-Fi. A short walk from the dingy-dock take us to Cocha y Perla, a little bay in the mangrove with a lot of fish, sea-lions, iguanas, turtles and penguins. There we snorkel for a while and I get caught by the current and get saved by Lars.

The next day we rent mountain-bicycles and have a nice ride to see flamingoes at Los Humedales, turtle breeding centre ”Centro de Crianza Arnaldo Tupiza”, and beaches like Playa del Amor with a lot of marine iguanas. At the latter Lars and I got a swim with some nice fish. Also Wi-Fi at Booby-trap before and after the bicycle ride.

At the anchorage Maria swim to a yellow boy but saw only some fish having a feast on the hall of Alexandra. Lars is having a scuba dive around Alexandra but the water is not clear enough. Ivar and Lars take a tour to Booby-trap for Wi-Fi and I enjoy being alone for a while. From the boat we can see a lot of animals in the water like penguins, sea-lions, turtles and boobies hunting for fish but they are al to far away.

Before leaving Isabela for Santa Cruz again we got contact with Coolrunnings a catamaran also on its way to Marquesses. We had contact with them for most time of the crossing on the SSB radio together with MaryAnnII.

Santa Cruz

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Isla Santa Cruz 8/6-13/6 2016

After a nice day of sailing jib and motor (43.4 NM, 6.4h, 5.5avg, 7.7max, wind 6.6avg 10.3max) we reached Isla Santa Cruz and Baya Academia, Puerto Ayora. Irene, Bolivars agent at Santa Cruz, came with the papers at 16 hour and we took a taxi-boat in to the city for a nice meal and wi-fi.

Darwin centre the next day was a nice waking tour from the harbour. On the way back to the village we find ODS a very find internet café serving cappuccino, fresh made fruit juice and yoghurt ice-cream per g. I had to sit with Darwin.

The next day we took a water-taxi across the harbour and a long walk took us to “Las Grietas” with to lava giant walls forming a tunnel with brackish water on top mixing with seawater deep down were we could snorkel and enjoy the fish in the could water. After that we stop at Playa de los Alemanes and snorkelled for a while in the flat not so clear water, looking at a lot of small fish.

A tour by taxi up north to los Gemelos with the huge volcanic craters, Lava Tunnels and El Chato were we could walk around with the giant tortoises. Back in town and after a 5$ budget lunch we had a nice fruit juice at Zayapa and a chat with the owner Liset.

Taxi to Tortuga Bay entrance and a long walk to the beach the next day. We were a little disappointed of the water that was muddy and unclear, but safe to bathe in. A little protected water hole had a lot of nice fish to look at. Due to the heavy swells and under current you could not bathe at the large beautiful beach that you pasted by to reach the other but surfers enjoyed it immense there.

San Cristobal

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San Cristobal 30/5-8/6 2016

After a good nights sleep we moved closer to the dingy dock with a hope to get lesser swells. Lars visited our agent Bolivar and got advice how to prepare for the clearance and the time for the groups arrival. We cleaned up and at 15 hour we had a visit of agent Bolivar, port captain, custom, immigration and health inspector. A diver inspected the hall and sad Alexandra was OK and the health lady inspected below deck. Coffey and cola was served and forms were filed and passports were stamped.

Together with the others we took a water-taxi in to the bridge with sea lions on the stairway. We went home to Bolevar were we were treated with very tasty Galapagos bananas. We had to stay on land for 3 h because of Alexandra being fumigated for cockroaches and other insects. Fumigator; 120 Volt. We have 12, 24, 220 Volt on Alexandra. It was a joke. At Casablanca we could get wifi for the first day in 8 days and celebrate that we finally reached Galapagos. When we got back on Alexandra the front window got cleaned up for old sika flex. On the bay arrived a cargo ship and a feeder ship was quickly on place to transport the cargo to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.

A long walk to the Centro de Interpretacion and Cerro Tijeretas (Tijeretas Hill) were we, on the cliffs hoped to see the frigate bird nesting but the nests were empty.

The main sail got piked up for repair by a not professional sail-maker in the morning and we took the dingy to a little beach at the military marine headquarters. The sea lions did not like us coming so we went ten meter out and dropped anchor. Here we could snorkel around and see a lot of fish and a big turtles that Lars and Maria followed for a while.

The next day, on a walk along the harbour, we saw the beautiful hermit crab and iguanas. We got good food on-board but also lobster and delicious cold fish soup in town.

Isla Espanola

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Isla Españiola tour with diving boat 6/6 2016

A one and a half hour tour to the island Españiola went quickly and at arrival we were al sailed in to land by a big rib from an other diving firm.

We saw Iguanas, Nascar Boobies, Blue-footed Boobies, Hermit crabs, Albatross, when waking around the island with our guide and dive master Santiago.

After a good lunch served on the boat we got into the water.

Scuba diving; Lars got Santiago as his “Body” and a Japanese couple dived too. They so shark and various fish on the reef and went down to 15 meter.

The rest of us, 9 people, snorkel’s to the reef together with some guys from the diving centre, one with an orange safety ring with him so he was easy to see. It was quite clear and we so a great variety of fish. Sum of us so a shark.

The day before we left for Isabela we got diesel, from jerry-cans sailed out by agent Bolivars son, for 3$ per gallon.

Going to Galapagos

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23-30/5 2016, 7 days and 13,5h, 1016 NM, best distance per 24h153,5 NM, Speed Avg. 5.6 kts, Speed Max. 7.7 kts, TWS Avg. 10.7 kts, TWS Max. 22.1 kts.

Upwind sailing, with different wind and current strength al the way, and a leek of water threw the forward hatch to the anchor storage, because it was not closet correctly. We sailed with a combination of motor and different sail. The mainsail had a big rift that Lars and Ivar tried to repair in Balboa but unfortunately it did not hold in this tough conditions. Good things happened too. On the third day we were visited by a lot of dolphins, for the first time on the Pacific. Also close to San Cristobal we had a couple of whales passing by and several amazing large stingray jumping for us. Galapagos Boobies flue around Alexandra night and days the last 24 hour. At 21 h 30/5 we sailed in to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal and dropped the anchor.

Las Perlas

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Islas Perlas 21/5-23/5 2016

Early in the morning the 21/5, after filling up the tanks with diesel and water, we sat course towards Isla del Ray, the largest island in the Islas Perlas group. 8:00 – 16:00. 60.7 NM,

We drop anchor between Isla del Ray and the small island Isla Espiritu Santo. It was a beautiful place almost magic, and I jumped in the water immediately. There were a strong current to be aware of but very refreshing. The next day we worked hard al three to clean the hall. Lars scuba, I snorkel and Ivar from the dingy. I also cleaned the bow from the dingy. We enjoyed looking at the big bird, pelican, flying and diving very close to Alexandra. The sundown was beautiful in the quiet environment.

Panama City ( Casco Antiguo)

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The old city in Panama is quite charming during day time. We had a Saturday mid day walk threw Casco Antigua, Plaza Bolivar, Plaza Catedral and Plaza Herrera. Al over you could by the Panama Sombrero and Kuna Molas. In late afternoon we find a fresh, new tapas restaurant with a free cerveza for the first tapas. It tasted great.

Balboa Yachtclub Pictures

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Balboa Yacht club, Panama City, Panama 27/4-2016

At the anchorage north of the pier we had an excellent view of the beautiful bridge, Puenta de las Americas over Around us we have a lot of different kinds of working boats that can produce great waves when they come and go. It was supposed to be a quick stop here in Panama but after 21 days we are still here. We have had a nice and informative meeting with ”Panama Karsten”, a Dane that help cruiser to get a round here and Galapagos, at Balboa Yachtclub. To get around here you use a taxi and you have to learn how to bargain. We have been around the city getting things done and provisioning three times. Now, 3/5, the ICOM is open for HAM channel. The fresh water pump has new drive belt, 18/5, and an extra gas tank is bought. Anchor winch and a pump for the cooling water are ordered from the US and should be delivered today. We are still waiting for the camera lens to be repaired. Heat and mosquito have made it tough here once in a while but a lot of good food and drink on board and a breeze make it bearable. People are nice and friendly here. Only one of the taxi-drivers has been bad. Also, good information on the 8:00 o’clock cruisers net have been helpful. We got gas that way, 6/5, with a communal taxi-driver that took al needed cruisers tanks to be filled up. Gas cost the same as our part of the cost for the taxi. The watermaker is not being used here because the water is not good enough. We have been over to the cay once, 13/5, to fill up water tanks. It is not easy to get a hold of one boy for and one aft but Ivar managed to do that. Alexandra is to big to swing around so therefore 2 boy attachment.

Also a tour to the huge Albrook centre were I finally find a vacuum cleaner. One day we walked out to Flamingo island to look for equipment and passed by a huge colourful building that turned up to be a Museo de la Biodivercidad (2013 Frank Gehry).

While waiting for the winch to arrive Lars and Ivar took the dive compressor up and filled the tanks with air.

Just now the Panama agent for Marine Warehouse Florida USA, Atoro, called to inform that the anchor winch will be delivered to Balboa in half an hour, 19/5!!! Happy time except there were no pump. Lars is now occupied with taking the old winch out and putting the new up. It is tough work in the heat. Ivar put sun-cover up and it helps a lot.

The 20/5 Lars connect power to the winch and immigration at the harbour and we took a taxi to Isla Flamenco to visit customs. If we had not gotten help from the, very nice, taxi-driver to speed up the procedure, we never had reach back to the harbour to pay the fee before closing time and after that immigration once again. Now we were al set to sail, early in the morning, on the 21/5, to Islas Perlas.