Tonga Vavau Group

Tonga Vavau group 28/10-5/11 2016

Saling from Apia Samoa to Neiafu Tonga Vavau

Time used 4 days 4h, Distant 428.3 NM, SOG 4.4 avg, 7.3 max, TWA 209, TWS in knots 11.6 avg, 25.5 max

24/10 Stay sail, motor and jib with main sail

25/10 Dolphins on Maria´s watch

26/10 Main down, main with a reef, reef out, run motor for power, reef out again

27/10 Tack to BB. Broken steering cable. Lars set up a new with kevlar cable and wire clamps from Hans Boserup, thank you so much Hans! Start motor and took sail down. A lot of swells and very uncomfortable to sail. Sat stay sail with motor so now little better.

28/10 Stay sail down and for motor threw the sound and in to Neiafu, Vavau. We docket on the concrete key close to check in. The quarantine man came and gave us some papers to fill in and we were allowed to take the Yellow Flag down. We got a very good advice, from Sandie on the US catamaran Gipsey Hart, to check in on The Golf Harbor Radio, when sailing down to New Zealand. Thank you so much for good information. Now we could go and fine a yellow boy that belongs to one of the diving clubs, but should clear ind with immigration, custom and health the next day.

29/10 Beautiful morning in the cockpit overlooking the bay, with a can of tea and fresh baked bread, enjoying the site of land. After another deal with the custom, immigration and a not showing up health we could hit the WiFi cafe Trokumara in the small town Neiafu. Also enjoy and shop at the fruit market and checking out the souvenir market for the cruising ship.

From now we had until 5/11 to enjoy Tonga Vavau and get thinks done. We hope that filling up with hydraulic oil to the autopilot will solve the problem. Lars made a smart filling system and got the autopilot to run. We took the dingy to the close by bay were the wharf was situated and had a talk with the mechanic, Kevin, who later on came by, with a local assistant, and looked at our Yanmar. He shift one of the feeding pumps and, lucky us, we had two extra. It turned out later that I did not solve the problem with diesel in the motor oil. The assistant took Lars for a ride in his car to a motor oil dealer who was much cheaper than the one in Neiafu. Lars changed oil before we left Tonga. We had to get a formula scanned and sent to custom in New Zealand and that could be done on Trokumara.

It was very special to walk around the little town with pigs and hens moving around on the street. Provisioning for the passage to NZ was not easy because of the supply in the chine’s supermarkets. Meat was frozen chicken and bacon and that was it. No goat and sheep cheese for Lars, only cow but that we have been used too after FP. We could get good food at the restaurant though and taco evening with Marguerite was great at Tropicana.




Samoa 18/10-23/10-2016 previously called western Samoa

Time used 4 days 20.5h, Distant 516 NM, SOG 4.9 avg, 7.2 max, TWA 198, TWS in knots 12.6 avg, 25.8 max

13/10-18/12 Sailing to Samoa, also called Kingdom of Samoa

Time used 6 days and 20.5 h, Distance 516 NM, SOG 4.9 avg, 7.2 max, TWA 198, TWS in knots 12.6 avg, 25.8 max

Day 1-13/10

10:30, after checking out of Cook Islands with the nice rangers and happy to be able to give them a pack of rice, we sailed out of the reef, sat jib and stopped motor, change the bed sheets, bake bread, Lars on Poly-magnet (Andrew, Jeff and Rodger) and West Poly-magnet (Amanda and Marc) cruisers net and we are well on our way to Samoa. We had a beautiful evening and night watch with a full moon on a clear sky.

Day 2-14/10

8-10 knots of wind sail 3.3 knots, sat main sail, bake cookies, rainbow snapper from Suwarrow for dinner.

Day 3 -15/10

Maria baked rye bread and run motor for power. In the evening on Maria’s watch, with15 knots and high swells, the autopilot did not work so hand-steering. Lars slept in the cockpit.

Day 4 -16/10

Lars rinsed the hose for the salt water cooling of fridge and freezer. Lamb-shops for dinner. Beautiful orange moon.

Day 5 -17/10

Nice with Pancakes today. The autopilot did not work well during the whole night so hand-steering.

Day 6 -18/10

Six in the morning we sail in to Apia on the north coast of Upolu island, after great difficulty to wake somebody up to give us permission to enter the harbor.

At noon we got visit of the quarantine man in skirt and we could take the yellow flag down. Short time after came two custom men also in skirt and the young man started to go threw every cupboard and drawer under neath. Off cause there were forms to bee field out by Lars. We had to take a taxi to the immigration office in town and we arrived in the last minute before closing. At the tourist office in the traditional park close to the big state administration building were immigration was we got the advice to meat in the park at noon next day and join the tourist information and show for the cruising ship tourists.

Wednesday we took a taxi in to the city at noon. The show for the big Cruising ship was amusing and also good information on Samoan culture like how to make a Tapa from a tree branch (see pictures), traditional dancing and cooking in a whole in the ground with hot stones.

Thursday we had to check out from Samoa because immigration was looked during weekends and we wanted to sail on Sunday. Also provisioning was important to do and we finally find a taxi-driver that could drive us to a big supermarket.

Friday disappear in Samoa time because of the Date Line!

Saturday we hired a Taxi with a driver to go around the island for a whole day. First stop on the tour was at a convent for education of priests. We had a swim in a cave with fresh water and there was a hidden tunnel we dared not use. Upolu island is a very green Island with very beautiful sandy beaches in the south. On the way south we passed a lot of villages with the traditional Fale, that is buildings without walls. A Fale could be small, just for the family or bigger for all village people to use. Beach Fale is very popular for backpackers to rent and quit inexpensive. Lars had to drive the last part of the drive down south because the driver was close to falling a sleep. After a nice meal at the beach he could drive us back to Apia. We past by the grave of the Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson’s tomb with the famous epic poem.

Suwarrow- Cook Islands

Suwarrow an atoll in Cook Islands, self-governing islands in association with New Zealand 11/10-13/10 2016

Suvorov after a Russian navy captain that lived on the island many years.

Time used to sail to Suwarrow from Maupiti was 6 days 18.5h, Distant 716.44 NM, SOG 4.4 avg, 7.3 max, TWA 198, TWS in knots 13.4 avg, 24.1 max

5/10 Wedding day, freshly made burger buns to the burger for dinner, not bad.

6/10 Lars sick is it a kidney stone? 02 Lars threw up, 04:30 mainsail down because of 20 knots, squall, setting stay-sail, 7:30 Lars take pills against stomach ache, 8:30 Lars throw up a lot of times.

7/10 8:00 Setting main and jib, 18:30 Lars are taking a lot of painkillers. We think that he have a kidney stone.

8/10 Lars still in a lot of pain.

9/10 6:30 The bilge does not work, empty bilge with an “Aldi pump” to a bucket.

10/10 9:30 Lars still in a lot of pain and take a lot of pain killers.

11/10 For motor and long time with jib alone. We will go slowly for not to arrive to early. We want to go threw the reef entrance in daytime.

We drop anchor close to the two other sailing boats after talking to the ranger on WHF. After clearance on Alexandra we relaxed on board the rest of the day.

12/10 Snorkel at the read boys (could be large Manta Ray there early in the morning) and also snorkel at the white boy with nice corals and fish like the little reef close by Alexandra.

Lars set up a hose from bilge to aft and out. We had also time for a walk around the little island in the atoll and buying fish from the rangers for a six-pack of beer. Also gave a pack of rice, to the rangers, we could spare.

In the evening the young ranger arranged Pot Luck Dinner for us together with a french boat with different nationality on board. Lady Amity came ind late but managed to come bye. It was nice to see them. The son grilled the fish, rainbow runner, perfectly.

We enjoyed a lot the short stay at Suwarrow. The to park ranger, father and sun, Harry and Pae Papai, were very pleasant and easygoing guys. They loved to be on the little island away from stress, noise and traffic on the mainland, that is the island Rarotonga in the south Cook Islands. They stayed on Suwarrow until November and came back in Maj after the hurricane season.

13/10 Sailing to Samoa 10:30 after checking out.


Maupiti 4/10-2016

Time used 6:55 h, Distant 28.5 NM, SOG 4.0 avg, 5.2 max, TWA 99.7, TWS in knots 9 avg, 15.4 max

Sail out of Teavanui, Pass Bora Bora, 8:30. We past by, the beautiful island, Maupiti after 7 hours sailing at 15:30 mostly because of late arrival but also very ruff current in the narrow pass. We continue to Suwarrow. and had another 7 days to go.

Bora Bora

Bora Bora 30/9-4/10

Time used 6 h, Distant 25 NM, SOG 4.1 avg, 6.1 max, TWA 173, TWS in knots 9 avg, 15 max

At seven in the morning we sail out of the beautiful bay Hurepiti with course to Bora Bora. Dolphins are playing when we pass the reef. Jib up but motor still on. Sunshine high swells and up to 15 knots. We sail in to Bora Bora threw Teavanui Pass and sail down south to the coral garden. We take the dingy to the reef and swim around. There are a lot of fish and fresh corals. We drift snorkeling back to Alexandra. After that we took the dingy in to the famous Bloody Mary restaurant and, off cause, I had a very tasty Bloody Mary.

Next day we sailed up north west to the Bora Bora Yacht Club and got a mooring boy there but not for free. Here we could relax and get things done. Lars shift a seal on Westerbeke but unfortunately it did not help the generator to start running. He also secured the crack on David-er by casting carbon fiber on. Also buying a lot of motor oil because we still have a leak of diesel into the motor oil for the Yanmar main motor.

We had a nice 3 km walk to town and after provisioning the last day the supermarket brought us back for free with all our bags filled up. At the police station, central of town, we could easily clear out of French Polynesia. They even helped us with some photo copies to use when buying gas before we left. The last evening in FP we took farewell by having a nice meal of Poisson Cru at the Bora Bora Yacht Club.

We sailed early in the morning and stopped at the TOP gas station to fill up with tax-free diesel. Also fill up with water because without the generator running we can not run the water-maker. It went fine and we were on our way towards Maupiti there we wanted to stop for one night if we came early and the current was not to strong. We said goodbye to Lucas from Kernobi SE and Lady Amety from Australia were also there.



Tahaá 27/9-30/9

Time used 8:30 h, Distance 34 NM, SOG 4.7 avg, 8 max, TWA 143, TWS in knots 14.7 avg, 28.5 max

At six o´clock in the morning we sail out of the pass, Avamoa at Fare. We had a lot of wind so jib alone. A squall hit us on the way threw the pass between Tahaá and Raiatea. We were lucky to come threw so it was not so bad. We had to tack threw the sound and we meet with a cargo-ship so quite exiting tour. Slowly we got better visibility so we could enjoy the coast of Tahaá. Finally, at 14:30, we reached the Baie de Tapuamu and find a village mooring boy there. The french boat Toomai, with the family we met on Fati Hiva, was there and we got to talk with them later on.

After a quiet evening relaxing on Alexandra we had a busy next day with visiting a Rom distillery, the village for fresh baguettes and taking the dingy out snorkeling at the coral garden.

Also Lars book us for a tour next day starting at Vanilla tour in Baie de Hurepiti so we were up early in the morning and sailed to the bay were the mooring was included in the price. Touring around in a land-rover with four German sailors and Noah, the son of the founder of Vanilla tour, was great. We got to know a lot about vanilla men also other plants, trees and fruits on the island. Also how to make roof out of palm tree leaves.


Huahine 25/9-27/9 2016

Time used 17:50 h, Distant 87.4 NM, SOG 4.2 avg, 8.2 max, TWA 99.7, TWS in knots 10.4 avg, 24 max

It was not a very pleasant over night sail to Huahine. The autopilot did not work properly so we had to hand-steer a part of the way. We had a lot of wind so stay sail during night. We sailed in threw the south pass, Avapihi, at 10 o’clock in the morning. Al mooring boys were taken and the wind was strong so we did not leave Alexandra during the day. We had to leave for Tahaá the next day, unfortunately, so we did not see much of Huahine. A fisherman came by thought and sold us four nice lobsters.


Moorea 24/9-25/9 2016

Time used 4 h, Distance 19.3 NM, SOG 4.5 avg 5.8 max, TWA 111.4, TWS in knots 9.7 avg 16,2 max

At 8 o’clock in the morning we sail to neighbor harbor with jib alone. We had the island in site all the way. Moorea is formed as an equi-lateral triangle and have 8 NM on the northern side, which is cut by the two deep bays Opunohu and Cook´s Bay. We pas the entrance to the beautiful Cook´s bay for to drop anchor north of the even more beautiful Opunohu Bay close to the big Manta-rays and underwater Tikis.

At 8 o’clock next morning we take the dingy to the place were the famous manta-rays use to be and we got very good contact with them. Amazing that they wanted to come so close. We did not have to have sardines with us to give them.

The underwater Tikis were really too deep down for me to see clearly but Lars took some dives down with the go-pro so got some pictures.

A short trip too the fisherman’s village were there time for before we had to leave for Huahine, 3another island in the Society Island group of French Polynesia, at 17 h.

Tahiti Marina Papete

Papeete 4/9 – 23/9 2016

We arrived at the guest bridge on a Sunday morning and did not get a tally card until next morning when the gate was opened by another sailor. We could have taken the dingy in but we were too lazy.

From our cockpit on Alexandra we were entertained by all the people passing by in the, very long stretched, beautiful park, “Jardins de Paofai“. People were walking, jogging, cycling, per-cure, relaxing on the grass, having lunch brake or meetings, birthday for the child, playing at one of the many playing grounds. Outrigger canoes were a big hit and every evening after work the bay were filled up with them, especially the ones for six paddler. The teams competed and you could here them shouting. Every paddler had there own wooden paddle with them.

The park have two large monuments. One made out of wood remembering the people that died because of the nuclear testing at Muroroa atoll. The other is a stone with the date of French Polynesian independence engraved.

Every day we walked through the park to the magazine Champion (tiny Carrefour) for provisioning for sailing out to the not so populated islands in the Society Island group of French Polynesia. We could get french cheese and paté but it was expensive. If you by local food it is not so expensive and it was also possible to get it on the market.

The private Pearl Museum, Robert Wan, showed how they make the pearls and the historic background. No entry fee and you had the opportunity to bye pearls of all kinds and prizes.

We also visited the Cathedral on Place Notre Dame were they have a beautiful sculpture in wood of Maria carrying Jesus with a breadfruit on his stomach, witch is a very typical church decoration for French Polynesia.

In the evening we enjoyed the street kitchen at Place Vaiete, a couple of times. Not only for the food, like poisson cru and crep, but seeing the local family’s and a few tourist relaxing in a nice atmosphere. A band of very old people were there playing every time. It is amazing that the mall change character in an hour every evening. Also 3 Barosso restaurant and bar have there own brewery and the excellent dark bear, amber can be recommended.

5/9 Richard and Renee our mechanics dismount the cylinder head of Westerbeke to be renovated, and get two new valves. Lars mounted a new cooling water pump for the fridge that uses much less energy so very good!

6/9 Richard take us with him to Taravao on the south east coast of Tahiti and Patric who together with Richard pressure tested the injection pipes. Afterwards we got a nice Tahiti round trip passing “Trou du Souffleur” the blow hole.

While waiting for Richard to finish the job with the Westerbeke generator we did the following.

7/9 Anchor delivered and Lars mount it to the anchor winch. Bus til Marina Tahina for to bye col-fiber mat and hypoxy for to repair head foil.

10/9 Four of the six battery to 24 volt over heated!

10-11/9 Lars repaired the head foil.

12/9 Main and jib sail and a halyard from Elvstrøm sail Denmark delivered on the bridge by UPS after paying 1000 DKK to the agent but no tax – so good..

13/9 Early in the morning with lesser wind we hoist the new main sail and in the afternoon we got the jib on the furler.

14/9 Richard passes by. Have problems with his mobile.

16/9 Mast Pulpit BB and SB mounted with sika flex. Renovate lockers to drawers and cabinets.

17/9 The washing-machine is taken out in peaces. In the afternoon we took a long walk to Fare Ute to buy a lot of filters to the machines at Sopom.

19/9 Four new batteries to 24 volt replace the six.

21/9 Richard and Renee mount the renovated cylinder head on Westerbeke.

23/9 In the morning Richard test electric fault and diesel distribution. Westerbeke does not start. Richard come back a, couple of hours later, and rinse the high pressure pump and now the Westerbeke start.

23/9 Went to the post office and sent a package to our grandson in Denmark and met Sasha and Rodger from Ednbal. They advised us about the coral garden in Tahaa and also the ice-cream / sorbet bar in Papeete. Thank you so much. We hope you got safe to Gambier and back.

24/9 at 8 o’clock we sailed to Moorea.

Arue Bay – Yacht Club de Tahiti


Arue Bay, Yacht Club de Tahiti 19/8-4/9 2016

Time 1 day 22 h 57 min., NM 246,3, SOG 4.4 kn avg,. 7.6 kn max., TWA 222, TWS 13.4 kn avg. 22.8 kn max.

At 10:30 17/8 2016 we sail out of the pass at Fakarava north with coarse set to Tahiti. We sat main and jib and kept them up all the way. That should be the last time sailing with the old sails. We had the wind from aft so good sailing. SSB net, making youtube movie on Nurse Sharks and baking bred were there time with. Maria suffer from to bad wounds on the left leg and right wrist but hoped that there were a good pharmacy in Arue.

Friday the 19/8 at 9:30, after passing point Venus, we dropped anchor in the beautiful Arue Bay. The holding was not good so we sailed closer to land and after to trial advised by Rodger in Ednbal, we were safe for anchor.

We were advised by Richard on BigFish to contact a diesel motor specialist (Richard Iehl) in Arue but could not reach him by sat-phone or mobile. Lars took the dingy to shore and on Carrefour got a local telephone sim card. It was then Friday afternoon and not possible to reach anybody by phone.

Next day we went to the very large Carrefour, 7 minutes away from the harbour, and got some nice bred and cheese. Our anchor does not hold very good so when talking to the harbour we got allowed to stay for four nights. It was fantastic to be in the little charming harbour and not be worrying about electricity and water, that was included in very reasonable harbour fee.

Monday 22/8 at 8 o’clock Lars got contact with Richard and he came 17:30 to here about our problems with the Yanmar motor and the Westerbeke. Also he took the three diesel injectors to Westerbeke with him for repair. It was a very good birthday present! Before that I was treated with a nice breakfast and birthday present from Lars. Also nice late breakfast, cheese burger, on the harbour café.

Next day the oil cooler to Yanmar was disassembled. The day after, 24/8, we took a bus to Papeete and there getting a new cover for the Yamaha motor (thanks to Christi and Tasha) and a look around on the nice little town. We had a visit by Andreas from Mellifera in the evening. He had gotten a crew to NZ and was happy for that.

Richard came bye on the morning 25/8 and told us that the oil cooler should bee repaired and also the diesel injector to Westerbeke.

26/8 Andreas came by and got the NZ maps on a stick and so did Jeff from Mezzaluna the next day. Also start on Eosin-Coper cure on my wounds after Lars had been to the Arue Pharmacy. I started a penicillin cure the 29/8 after advice from Songhui. Katie and Jeff came by for coffee and nice too get too now them a little better.

Monday the 29/8 we had to leave the harbour because a catamaran from Papeete had reserved the mooring in advance. We had no motor capacity so we got dragged out by the harbour. It was not nice to be out there, knowing that if Alexandra were dragging by the anchor, we could not do anything. Nice to know, though, that the boats around us like Mezzaluna, EyeCandy and Maluhia would help us if necessary and so they did later on. We dared to go in and have a nice Pot-Luck dinner with the other sailors at the café (Monday closed) in the evening.

30/8 Lars mounted the three diesel injectors to Westerbeke that have been repaired but the generator did not start. Lars got dinner from street kitchen. No compression in some of the three cylinders says Richard the 31/8. We are dragging against the reef. Next day a lot of wind on the anchorage. Lars set me of on land so I could go and get some food on Carrefour because he did not want to leave Alexandra. Instead we got nice companies, from neighbour sailors, to a sundowner with newly bought cold beer!

13:00 2/9 Richard and Renee came with the oil-cooler and mounted it. Now the Yanmar motor runs!!! The next day there were still a lot of wind on the anchorage and after David and Kim had checked that our place is empty we sailed into the harbour and there were Andrew, David and Jeff to take the lines. We stayed there until Sunday afternoon when we could sail to Papeete Marina after Lars had mounted four repaired (thanks Hans) diesel injector to the Yanmar motor. Now the motor run and with much lesser dark smoke. On the short tour to Papeete we saw a whale sticking up several times!