Author Archives: lars

Debut village on the Island Key Kecil Indonesia 24 july to 29 july

25/7 After visited the custom on the harbour we took a walk in the village. First the Christian part and later in the afternoon the Muslim part. We met a man at the church that could speak a little English. He was lucky being employed by the government after studied political science in Jakarta. He was waiting for his nephew coming from school. When the little boy came he took him on his motorcycle. Here in Indonesia scooter and motorbikes are the favorite transportation, we quickly found out. Back on Alexandra Lars find the fault with the generator. It was a relay that had contact problem. We made a lot of water and I could wash clothes. After some badges we made drinking water. We took the dingy in to see the Muslim part with the little mosque.

26/7 Welcome 2 wonderful Indonesia at the “harbour” with many officials from Java, South Mollucca regency, the island and the village. They entertained with music and dance. There were a lot of speeches so it took a long time. We got our first snack box also with water so we survived in the 30+ºC. In the afternoon we went with buses to a fishing village were the people had worked very hard to prepare for our welcome. There were music and dance and long speeches. The women had prepared local food and beverage for us and it was very special. We had to by coupons for 200000IDR- 88.42DKK for buying food on 6 different stands and the 7 were beverage like water or sweet water with jelly. Afterwords you could see the special local instruments and also the special fishing-boats they were using to catch clusters of small fish. We were quite tired when we arrived at Alexandra in the evening.

27/7 With dingy and Randevåg to the harbour 8:30. Nice fried bananas for 5000IDR=2.21 DKK. and picture taken with the local lady’s, one named Maria. We wait for a bus-tour for quite a while. Finally we arrived to a lovely beach and into the water for the first time in Indonesia. Only seagrass but there were fish to look at. We pay for the nice shed to change clothes as the only one, 50000IDR / 22.39DKK.

16:30 we take the dingy to neighbouring island and get it up on the sand. We had a long bus ride to a beautiful beach with big trees that gave shades for the hot sun. There were a lot of speeches, music and dances. “Gala dinner” later in the evening was special with local food made by the women in the village. I was unfortunate hurting my write knee when dancing with an old lady from the village. The old once are amazing, loving music and dance. Lars had too, almost, carry me to the bus because having weight on the knee hurt immensely.

28/7 Debut. Still hurting write leg and knee and also bad stomach. Lars with Randivåg to Langur after sim card.

29/7 Taxi with driver to Tual with Randivåg and Blue Roger. I wanted to see the town I had red about in the wonderful e-book Spice Islands Voyage, in search of Wallace, by Tim Severin. We visited the old city and there an “Arab” mosque, decorated very expensively with marble. We had a stop at a Muslim congregation around a mosque that was very colourful. All the houses around were coloured the same. Finding a restaurant was difficult but finally we came to the hotel we knew from before and got OK food.

Lifou Loyalty Islands New Caledonia

16/9-18/9-2017 Crossing to the Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia with the ICA Pacific Circle Rally.

We started, early in the morning but after most of the others. When sailing out of the bay we met Lisa and Sven-Gösta coming in to Port Villa in there sailingboat Randivåg. We started out with two reef and jib and not like most of the rally boats that went for motor and full sail. The swells were up to 3.5 meter. It was not a comfortable upwind sailing and the speed was low (sometimes only 3.5) but a short distant so we did not care. Sometimes we changed the jib with staysail and during night we had only main with two reef. Once we had a sudden wind change from east to west. In shorter periods we had to use the motor.

Going with the rally meant that we could clear in to New Cal at Lifou on the 19/9 and that was a great advantage. Now we had a lot of the westerly island close by. The clearance took 3.45 min per boat and we were 30 boats so very good.

Sailing in New Cal 20/9-10/10 2017

Big bus arranged by the rally to village with post office for buying net and supermarket with nice French food like baguette and goat (chèvre) cheese.

Lifou minibus tour 21/9 with Mike and Glenda on Manuhaea, Jim and Linaire on Panthera and Russ Jane on Vivacious. The south island is beautiful with the sandy beaches, stone formations, cliffs, flowers etc. We had expected to see caves and finally Glenda managed to convince the driver to get a hold of a guide for to see a cave. An interesting old man had knowledge about the cave and showed us the way whiled packet in the trunk. Al of us had clip-clappers on and when we saw the cave we realised that at least the women could not go deep down into the cave. We enjoyed talking with the old man while waiting for our men to turn up from the deep. Lars got beautiful pictures of the inside of the cave.

 

Sailing with Kirsten and Bjarne in Fiji, crossing to Vanuatu, and sailing in Vanuatu. 11/7-2/8 2017

We had great time with the two sailors from Denmark for almost a month. The Hindu Tempel in Nadi had to be seen and get an Indian snack after woods was good. Shopping at the fruit and vegetable market and also fish market was great.

Blue Lagoon Yasawa group: Snorkelling on reef and having an enjoyable evening at the resort

Manta Ray Yasawa group: Snorkelling

Lautoka, Viti Levu: Provisioning

Outside Vuda, Viti Levu and Vuda marina: Clear out Fiji with custom and meeting and having lunch with Sangui and Dominique from SYVIVA. So happy to met them there.

Momi Bay waiting for a passage window. Beautiful bay were we got time to relax before the crossing.

22-26/7 Crossing to Vanuatu

Kirsten and Bjarne got an early swim and I made tea and coffee. We sailed out of the reef at 8:30, on a coarse to Port Villa Vanuatu, for motor because there were no wind. At 16 hour we pas a chines fishing boat 5 NM south of us.

First night we had 20 knots and powerful swells on my watch 24-03 so when Lars came up we took the main down and sailed with jib alone 03-06. On Kirsten and Bjarnes watch, 06-09, Lars helped setting staysail instead of jib. On Maria’s watch

09-12 all are up and we sat main with one reef. It was cloudy, 16 knots of wind and we sail 6.2 knots. (24 hour 145 NM). I got an hours sleep and Kirsten cut pineapple for us. For dinner we had the tuna Kirsten caught with Kirsten’s home made cucumber salad and rise.

Second night Maria on watch 03-06. 16-19 knots sail 5.7-6.4 knots, clouded with a few stars, water temperature 25.2°C. Made coffee and run the generator 40 minutes when freezer alarm. It is cold so long trousers and fleece sweatshirt. Time for gymnastic in the cockpit. At 06 twilight and red sky at 6:30 when Lars get a wake up call. Make two bred dough rye and wheat, toilet and rest. Fishing boat from Fiji with a boy after came very close by and Lars talk to them on VHF. They say that we can passe by and there is no problem. Also a fishing-boat from Vanuatu passes by and I can see the boy close to Alexandra. Kirsten navigate 20 degrees to BB. The bred was good and I get sum lunch before my watch 12-15. the other three sailors are asleep at 14 hour. We have nice left over dinner, lam, sausages and noodles. Kirsten makes risotto.

Third night Maria watch 21-24 the Dutch boat Sponky came closer from behind and at the same time we meet a fishing boat without AIS. Lars took over at 24 hour the third night. I wake up at 04 on K &B watch because of the freezer alarm. I sta

rt the gen-set and run it for one hour. Stop it and sleep again. At 6:30 sunrise with Bjarne is not so fine because it is cloudy. Later on sunshine and nice blue sky. We sail good no with less powerful swells. At 15 hour nice papaya. Water temperature 24.9.

Sailing Vanuatu

26-28/7 Port Villa the capital of Vanuatu situated on the island Efate. Lars cleared in with custom and we all cleared in with immigration and biosecurity at an office in town. The latter had been recently moved so we had to have help from locals to find it. The atmosphere in town was nice and friendly. We find digicel and net and then on to the large fruit and vegetable market.

29/7 Havana Bay reef snorkelling also on huge mussels, visit amazing sand stone cave and passing the guides village close by in his “banana boat”.

30/7 We sailed early in the morning to Port Villa so we could take part in the National Day celebration at the stadium in Port Villa. A happy day for the locals with live music constantly, except for when there were speeches from some of the people sitting in the celebrity tent. Also a lot of shops with home made food to by.

31/7 Taxi tour to Blue lagoon, Turtle sanctuary also with small reef sharks. Here we got quite alright local food for lunch. Afterwords we came to a National park with a beautiful waterfall were we bathed in the sweet water. Kirsten jumped into the water with a rope swing.

1/8 Taxi and shuttle ferry to Hideaway Island.There all of us were snorkeling on beautiful reef and Lars dived down to the underwater mailbox and posted a postcard to our grandchild Oskar. We find our self in deck chair on the stony beach enjoying the sun. years wedding day. We were then invited for lunch by Kirsten and Bjarne to celebrate their 30 years wedding-day.

Sailing to the west coast of Viti Levu Fiji – 24/6 – 10/7

Provisioning fuel, gasoline, gas, laundry and checking out the westerly islands for later tour with guests from Denmark. 

The next day the 24/6, in rain and fog, at high tide, we sailed out of the little harbour with help from the nice “kava” lady from last night. We continued west finding OK anchorage in Waivunu Bay, outside a village with a church, a few NM away. Lars had to shunt the anchor winch so we could launch the anchor on 10 meter. It was a corroded electric cord that had to be fixed later on. Although irritating swells, humid air that made it difficult to get the laundry dry and affected our sleep, we had a nice stay seeing children playing on the sand bank at low tide.

The next morning 25/6, after Lars have fixed the corroded cord, we sail of for motor to Sovi Bay. Not much wind so motor sailing. We had to be careful getting out and also getting in to the new bay because of he reefs. Glad to have Sea Map and Google earth but also Navionic on my iPad mini. We went for motor in 7 hours before dropping anchor in a nice bay close to “the island highway”.

Early start next day, 26/6, to sail to Tuveriki Bay (south of Momi Bay) on the west coast of Viti Levu. Most of the day strong swells so inconvenient sailing. Nice relaxing evening in the cockpit.

Maria swam in the warm, 26.2, green water and dryed in the sun, now only 25% cloud cover. We run the water maker for an hour. So of to famous anchorage at Musket Cove resort on Malolo Island. Nice sailing downwind with only jib out. At 14:30 we drop anchor in the bay. The swells are strong here so not satisfied with the anchorage. We took the dingy in to check out the dive centre, little supermarket, café and resort. Nice sandy roads and expensive restaurant by the pool. We enjoyed the evening on board.

We expect strong winds the next days so in the morning on the 28/6, after setting a bred dough, we sailed back to the west coast of Viti Levu that is one of the two largest island in Fiji and in to Port Denarau Nadi (Nandi). We anchor outside the port because it is not enough water, on law tide, were the mooring boys are situated inside the harbour.

The next day, 29/6 we are of in the dingy to Denarau and the harbour office were we got a tally card after giving 25 FJD in deposition. Now we have access to the harbour at any time and can get rid of garbage, wash cloves (bye token) use the toilets and shower. The yellow one dollar bus to Nadi took us to the fabulous vegetable and fish market, supermarket and of cause Indian inspired lunch. Lars took the curry with fish and there were more bone than fish in it but the taste were good. No fish and curry for me. I had it in Suva so grilled chicken bone. We left two gas tanks outside the harbour office the next day and they were field up in the afternoon and we just had to pay at the office. So easy. Enjoyed the afternoon on Alexandra having, what is not easy to get out here, guacamole and shrimp for sundowner.

The next day we sailed into the harbour with Alexandra for to fill up diesel and gasoline before we sail up north to, the well protected against swells, Saweni Bay for motor. We went into the water and washed the hall and the next day too, with Lars having diving equipment on. That was very needed!!!

3/7 Sunny day, water temperature 26.5. No wind so going for motor passing the island Waya in the Yasawa group. Anchor dropped at Manta Rey island and jump into the turquoise water and snorkel over the reef close by. Beautiful corals and reef fish. The next day we also tried to snorkel, were the Manta Rey was supposed to bee, but the swells were to strong for me.

5/7-7/7 We sail for motor, having the wind on the nose, to the Blue lagoon between the islands Nanuyva and Sese. Water temperature 25.8 and 60% cloud cover. We take the dingy in to check out the resort. The next day we test the two good snorkelling places. Very good with a lot nice reef fish of the beach, so easy to get to. They have been fed. In the other end of the bay we had the dingy with us and the reef there was very nice but on deeper water and you have to get up in the dingy afterwards. With help from Lars it was fine.

7/7 We sail to the island Waya and a northern anchor bay for motor because 10 knots wind in the nose. When for anchor Lars put a newly fixed anchor snubber to the anchor. It worked fine. 3 motor boats and three sailing boats were there when we came so almost field up.

8/7-10/7 We sail to Denarau and on the way out of the bay we enjoy the beautiful view of the island so many pictures was taken. The wind is in the nose so motor sailing again. Later on we can set stay sail and it gives us one knot of speed and more enjoyable sailing. Drop anchor 14:30 outside Port Denarau. During the next days we had a lot to fix before guests from Denmark arrive on the 11/7. Laundry, cleaning SB cabin, provisioning etc. Most important though is to get our davits repaired. Lars made repair on davits by using carbon fibre and epoxy in Bora Bora. We knew it would not hold for ever but good in a crisis situation. Also the new dingy is much heavier than the old one so good to strengthen the davits. We manage to get it delivered to a metal workshop in Denarau the 11/7 and could get it back two days later repaired and supported by to new triangles.

Pacific Harbour and Pearl Resort Marina Viti Levu 19/6-24/6

Pacific Harbour for anchor 19/6

Close to the reef but very quiet evening having crayfish from Minerve with white wine. The next morning we sailed in to the little harbour at Pearl Resort. We had 4 enjoyable nights here. In the afternoon we had a mechanic from Suva to look at the generator. It was the capacitor that failed so a new was installed and we got an extra in case it would fail again. Good service!

Lars got to dive twice with Aqua Trek. Soft coral and wreck dive one day and two shark dives the other day and he thought it was awesome.

Also we were invited to see traditional Fijian walking on hot stones and afterwards taking part in a “Kava” drinking ceremony together with a couple from NZ. It was the 23/6 and “Midsummer Eve” so afterwords we had herring, egg, potatoes, mayonnaise and rye bread with beer and snaps.

Beqa, Viti Levu Fiji 14/6-19/6

Beqa (pronounced Benga) island was the next stop. There we had the experience with being presented for the village chief and giving him kava for letting us anchor and snorkel on his premises. We got invited to come to the church on Sunday and so we did. Afterwords we were invited for lunch at the house of the oldest man in the village. To of the grandchildren had 3 years birthday so we got birthday cake also. With a little help they should cut the first piece themselves.

We snorkel at the reef in the entrance to the bay and it was beautiful with a lot of soft corals. Also a tour with the dingy to get a closer look at the mangrove. We could here only one bird singing in this special, quiet terrain.

 

Suva, Fiji 09-06-17

9/6 The next day we had to go to the capital of Fiji Suva town with taxi for no cost cruising permit and another taxi to pay Health and from there Bio-security because we did not have Fiji $. NZ bank would not let us bye FJD$ because we did not have a bank account in NZ.

A walk downhill to the center of the city and got some rice and curry was nice. Fiji has to large population groups iTaukei indigenous (56.8%) and Indians (37.5%). We bought a solo (Fiji skirt) each for later use. Bio-security was located at Quins Port a very busy container harbor.

Showing our KDY member card we got a membership for free in Suva Royal Yacht Club. It was popular with the other sailor that we could get discount in the bar.

We enjoyed being inviting by Sven and Lisa onboard Randevåg and with Frideborg so we were six Scandinavian talking Swedish until late.

The next day Sven got to talk with a taxi-driver who wanted to take us to a Hindu, once in a year, celebration with fire walking, in a village, an hours drive a way from Suva. It was amazing.

Getting fuel was difficult but we could borrow jerrycans from Stuart and thanks for that.