Medana Bay, Lombok Island, 15-18/9

We sail from Badas Port to Lombok 13-14/9. It was a tough sailing with wind in the nose and up to 30 knots. We were tacking al day long and the next day also. Motor main and jib or staysail. We were close to getting on the reef because navionic map wanted us further into the bay. We change course in the last minute. We were exhausted after dropping anchor in the nice Medana bay. We relaxed on Alexandra the rest of the day. The next day we took the dingy in and pay for anchoring and laundry. Also handed over to gas bottle to be field up during the day. We walked to the village and saw the destruction the earthquake had done. Poor people. Yet they want to make a party for us sailor. Amazing. In the evening, we had music from the sailors on Moonshadow and Florian on Esberanza, at the marina restaurant. We were getting good food when we were called on from SV Jeanne Marie that we were drifting on to them. We had to go to the dingy fast and out and move Alexandra.

16/9 Tour to Elephant park with Lisa and Sven. Lars tried first to get some money from the one ATM that worked. He did get some on MasterCard but not enough. We had to pay for the visa extension today and cash is the only way here so good we could borrow from Lisa. On the way to the park we could see the destruction in the villages we past. The park, that holds only Indonesian animals except to hippopotamus, was not effected by the earthquake. We bought a ticket each including 3 course lunch for 100000 IDR=44.58dkk=6.89USD.

17/9 Lars is up early for to go to work on the project for building pre school started by Kimi and Trevor on SY Slow Flight. He took the donations with him to deliver at the marina. He came home after 4-5 hot hours working with making water connections to the toilet. In the afternoon the locals march in, invite us al sailor for a meal on the lawn and give us a song and dance show that was very impressive. Kimi and Trever were dressed in local clothes and Kimi hold a short speech in Indonesian.

18/9 Sailing to Trewangan island, Gillie Islands for motor because no wind. After getting a mooring boy we and Sven went in with the dingy to get an ATM, top up and check out the place. As we had heard there were a lot of backpacker/young people on the island and nice cafes, bars and restaurants along the waterfront. The destruction after the earthquake was easily seen here also but not as bad as Lombok. In the evening al for of us had good food at a fish restaurant (lobster) and a marvellous view. It was the first night they had opened after the earthquake and we were there first guests. We had and excellent meal in the sunset.

Badas Port, Simbawa Island 11-13/9

We stopped at three places on the way to Badas Port. At Were bay Simbawa Island kids were sailing under sail in dugout canoes. When we came up next day our companion boats had already sailed. Later we herd they sail 1.5 hours before us. Mainsail up al day but also motor sailing. The wind came when we sailed in to Kilo to anchor. We pas Mandolin with Russel towing Revision 11. A fishing line had been stack on the propel. Mike had worked hard to get it of but difficult when sailing. Lars went into the dingy and met them when sailing into the bay. Also he dive down to help get rid of the line that was melted on the propel. Russel took a turn also. Terry was amazing, baking cookies for us, in that situation. The next day we get up at 06 in the morning. Al boats are still there. Kiwi summers sail to Revision 11. At 8:30 Terry call on VHF saying that the motor work so now we can all sail. While we waited we got a visitor coming in an outrigger canoe, Wahyu Di Udin English teacher. We sail for motor and no wind at al but suddenly it comes and we set al sails and sail very fast. Anchor drop in Kananga bay. Next day we sail for motor threw the sound between Moyo and Simbawa. We sat staysail that gave ½ a knots but later on we could set jib and sail 7 knots in 30 min and then change course and we can stop the motor and hoist the main at 10 a clock. We reach Badas Port at 13 hour just to see a bus with sailors leaving the port. We went to the Epson and could top up our SIM cards. Many of the sailors went with a bus to a pizza restaurant but we got a box dinner and could by cold Guinness.

Next day we were on a bus tour to local market were we bought fish, chicken and greens. Afterwards supermarket. In the evening we saw catwalk on the bridge. It was Indonesian designer, Indonesian models and traditional pattern and colours. We could also see women weaving traditional patterns. When we were leaving the bridge to go to the bus they started fireworks and we got scared. Some people got very close to it.

Laboan Bajo. Flores Island, 5/9-6/9.

We arrive at 8 a clock in the morning after sailing over two nights and days. We stayed on board the whole day even if the marine came in there boat and told us to go in at 10 a clock. We were tired and needed to rest. In the evening there was a big welcome party at the hotel close by the anchorage. Raymond was there but also the minister of tourism. We got good food and also t-shirts mm. Early morning we went into town to shop food etcetera, together with Sven and Lisa. We got a nice local burger on a burger-bar. We sailed immediately when we came aboard for not to arrive to late at Rindja Island 6-7/9. Beautiful mountainous landscape al the way to the anchorage. 17:30 sundowner and of to bed. Up at 6 in the morning to get early in for a walk with a ranger to see the Komodo dragon. We were the first group out walking after we had taken a few picture of an old Komodo dragon laying there close to the rangers huts. The dragons come close to the ranger station sometime to get water. They are not fed and live as they choose. We took the long track and saw a lot of animals like monkeys, dear, water buffalo and birds in the wilderness. Back on Alexandra we sailed to a little island close to Komodo island Gililawa Darat. We shared a mooring with VOLO and Randevåg. We took a snorkel tour hanging after the dingy and enjoyed a beautiful coral reef! Sundowner and grill at Randivåg. We arrive at 8 a clock in the morning after sailing over two nights and days. We stayed on board the whole day even if the marine came in there boat and told us to go in at 10 a clock. We were tired and needed to rest. In the evening there was a big welcome party at the hotel close by the anchorage. Raymond was there but also the minister of tourism. We got good food and also t-shirts mm. Early morning we went into town to shop food etcetera, together with Sven and Lisa. We got a nice local burger on a burger-bar.

Bau Bau, Buton Island, South Sulawesi 31/8-3/9

31/8-3/9 Bau Bau, Buton Island, South Sulawesi for anchor. We were going with a bus to oyster farm, pearl harvesting and a village that harvest and dry kelp / seaweed. The latter village people offer us delicious newly fried bananas and sweet potatoes with water. Later on we got traditional lunch, that was rice, chicken, fish and vegetables. On the way back to town we stopped at a family factory making chines concrete garden decorations. Also we passed beautiful rice fields.

1/9 Bau Bau for anchor. Bus tour to village were we could enjoy seeing mend dressed up as musketeers dancing handling swards and flags and teenager doing traditional sport and play using coconut shells and sea shells. Afterwords we got traditional lunch. We visited a village were women were weaving beautiful textiles. A very colourful village were visited and we got the story. If there were advertising on the house they got the paint for free from Glotex. We saw a little museum showing traditional ceramics while old men played traditional music. Also, we came home to two old ladies ceramic shop and could see how they, by hand, made traditional ceramics.

Up at the fort we saw Sultan houses and spectacular wedding dresses we could try. Up on the fort the guides surprised with a beautiful birthday cake to Lisa and we all sang accompanied by Salam on guitar. Street kitchen and, very important, visit a seldom existing bear and liqueur shop. We had our meal together with the other at the hotel. Sean, from Ireland SY Chevaldy, entertained us playing on our guide Salam´s guitar, after used some time to tune it. One of the lovely female guide could really sing! It was a nice evening.

2/9 Bau Bau for anchor. Bus to marked in Korea village. There is a sign written in Korean but when reading it it sounded like Indonesian. Strange. Afterwords the bus took us to Pine tree Park were we got lunch. Unhappily there was a lot of trash from people using the lovely park! Finally the bus went to a very popular beach. Not many of the local people went into the water and if they did they had the clothes on. The children loved to sob in the water. Some of us sailor went into the water. No reef but fish on some stones. Coming up we got nice fruit. After eating dinner at the Italian restaurant we sad goodbye to Salaam, Raymond and the photographer. We have had so many experiences sailing to Buton island, visiting many villages and a town on the island.

Buton South, South Sulawesi 27/8-30/8 2018

27/8 We sailed to Buton south for motor 08-12:00. We drop the anchor but soon we had to re anchor because we were drifting. At 17 hour sundowner at Volo and Randivåg is suddenly drifting and Sven and Lisa had to go fast back to the yacht and re anchor.

28/8 We sail to Bau Bau after trying to anchor using fishing boats moorings that failed. We went for motor and jib and it took 4 hoers. We anchor close to Extrapol outside a hotel. They had arranged a dingy dock that was quite unstable and during evenings very dark and somewhat difficult stairs to come up on to the hotel. There we had a very nice place to meat with the other sailors, the guides and Raymond. We sailed in and went to the supermarket we new from before and find a restaurant serving quite good European food.

29/8 Bau Bau for anchor and bus at 8 a clock to south Buton with stop at a village with special houses on stilts. Underneath the house they store a lot of wood for cocking. We could get inside the little house. I got coffee sitting on the floor in another much bigger house. On the attic they store corn from 1960. Arriving to S Buton we got lunch but first all the lady’s have to learn a little about local cocking from the women in the village. The bus stopped at a boat builder that did not use nails and screws. At the festival place, beautiful situated on the beach, we herd speeches, saw a lot of dances and selfies were taken. They wanted us up dancing and of cause group pictures were taken. Along the schore we could see traditional fishing boats under sail. On the tour back to Bau Bau, when riding on a sand and gravel road, we noticed that the bus had to avoid a lot of obstacles, made of the local people, because they wanted slow down traffic to avoid dust coming into there houses. We came back to Bau Bau late in the darkness.

30/8 Bau Bau for anchor and bus to south Buton. The bus leaves 9:15 after repair. 11:30 we visit school for the youngest. We saw that they had a lot of new not used books on the shelf’s. We had good coffee and snacks at the house from yesterday and then the bus took us to the festival place at the beach. We got traditional lunch and then speeches and dancer entertained. Max talk for us sailors and we were al up on the scene for group photo and to receive gifts. On the way back we stopped at a carpenter that made traditional furnisher. Back in Bau Bau 19 hour.

Passar Wajo South Sulawesi 20/8-27/8 2018

20/8 At 07:00 we sail out of Banua Banu after we have taken the canvas cover of the main, rain-cover in front, hoist the outboard motor onboard and the dingy on the davids. We had some very eventful days there and met so nice people. Now the coarse was to Pasar Wajo also situated on the island Buton. We sail very fast close hauled, 9.6 knots, out of the bay. We have Randivåg and Volo close behind. Time to make IKEA rye-bread on the way. The wind disappear later on so for motor. I got hold of a mooring in the large bay.

Nice dinner on board getting a fillet from the fish we got from the fishermen in Banua Banu. We were tired after a days sailing so early in bed.

21/8 Quiet morning. Get a hair cut of the captain. Nice! The dingy get into the water and we sail into the dingy dock to present us to the guides. They were on the bridge and welcomed us. They arrange very quickly a tour on motorcycle to the town for to top up internet and go to the market. I bought a cotton long-sleeved blouse on the market and we got some vegetable. Bread, toast bread, is difficult to get but after a couple of stops we got some. Lars had a very heavy rucksack on the tour back on the motorbike. We took a walk to the “swimming-pool” in the river and met Russell, Diana and Garry there. We decided that we should take a swim there later in the evening and eat there. After the swim we had, Mie goreng, fried egg noodles with vegetables.

22/8 We woke up a round 4 o’clock because of very load prayer from the mosque. It turned up to be the beginning of a very holy three days for the Muslims. Abraham did not kill his son because God interfered.? There were a lot of praying, calling and singing from the speaker the next days. A bus took us all to the Mayer’s beautiful house for a very nice lunch with desert. We could inspect the building that was used for representative purpose. Many selfies were taken and we were photographed together with the mayor and his wife. In the evening, at my 68 birthday, Raymond had arranged that there would be delivered local bintang beer to buy and karaoke with dance in the tent but the beer came so late that almost al of us had gone back to the boats. That was a strange birthday.

23/8 Tour with bus to arrack distillery in the jungle. Easy moveable. We had police escort. The bus stops at the supermarket in Bau Bau. Shopping was good with ham, cheese, chicken, coffee etc. The bus drove around the big famous fort, the words biggest they say, but did not stop. Later on we got to see it. We were back at the dingy dock at 15:30 very tired and hot.

24/8 Indonesian cocking class. First we had to see were some of the ingredients came from so Rusdi took us on a tour to his grandparents house. We used Parende (Berindi) green fruit a little taste of citrus, garlic, scarlet onion, tomatoes citrus grass, turmeric (gurkemaya), chilli, tuna, cassava. Lars and I, together with the nice girls Diana, Victoria, Amy and Kimi, had a great morning making a delicious fish soup, cassava top and cookies. We learned from Rusdi that “Anja Kamu” means only you. In the afternoon we got a ride in a car to a place were there were going to be a canoe competition. Must say that we were depressed by the lot of trash on the place. Lars practised his new drone there while waiting. There were no activities so the guide took us to see the little but beautiful fort from 1600 situated up the hill. Sultans and kings have lived there. 19:30 we all go by bus to the big festival place up the mountain. We get welcome by dancers and a nice buffet were served. Afterwords more dances. They wanted us up to the big scene and listen to several local rock bands playing. The mayor was there to. We made a tour around the expo and I got a very nice brooch made with a black pearl and “mother of perl”, perlemor in Danish. The bus went home with us at 24 hour.

25/8 Sleep late. A long tour with a bus to open asphalt mine. They process it and sell it as liquid asphalt. They were working on a new factory.

26/8 With the bus to Festival place up the hill. There were a lot of local people when we came. We saw weaving ladies. In a separate room we got sarongs to be dressed in. It was very hot when we came out of the air-conditioned room with extra clothing on. There were important people like the Mayor we met before, Bupati, parents with baby’s getting old fashion traditional “baptising” and boys dressed up in blue costumes to celebrate there circumcision. We sat on the floor eating food that the families have brought with them. Finally, after long waiting in the heat, we saw the “thousand dancer”, and it was spectacular.

 

North Buton South Sulawesi 15/8-20/8 2018

15/8 Sailing to North Buton and the fishing village Banua Banu. Anchor up at 05:15 and out, of the beautiful bay, for motor.

16/8 Sailing to North Buton. We sail most of the day behind Blue Rodgers and Randivåg but at the last miles we got wind in the sail and were a head of both sailing in to Anchor in the afternoon. We took the dingy down and sailed in to the dock and met with an English teacher and his students. They told us about a fish and seafood restaurant and showed us the way. We could shoos an alive lobster each, in a large basin. We got one of the best meals in Indonesia there. The guides went of on the scooter to by local bintang bear to us with ice on the side to cool.

17/8 With bus to Islamic center because it is Indonesia’s national day. We were invited to sit with the important people to see the military parade. A lot of selfies was taken with us. After that the bus take us to the market in Ereke, the capital of North Buton. It is a very large and good market we so get eggs and vegetables. I rest my knee in the afternoon and Lars take a tour to see traditional games and a beach. He was chocked by the plastic pollution on the beautiful beach. In the evening we are going by bus to Ereke and a big hall were we are sitting for a long while waiting for something to happened. Some of us, not Lars and I, were going to a circumcision celebration of 100 children. Finally the hall gets filled up. There were speeches, mostly in Indonesian, from Bupati and other important people, like leader of tourism, we had to listen to. Afterwords dances by small children. At 21:30 we finally got local food, quiet good, in a room at the side of the big hall. Afterword they took pictures of us on the big stage.

18/8 Lars sailed in and went on a tour to see traditional sport in the morning. Neighbor fishermen came aboard with fish. So sweet of them. I made Coffey for them. Lars take care of the fish so we have file of fish in the freezer. We went a tour in the fishing village built on stilt with our lovely young guides, Yhus, Reisya Omar and little sister…and later on the English teacher joined us. It was quiet exiting to go on the boardwalk because there were many wholes but the young people took care of us so we did not fall down. There were time to talk about trash also. They came aboard on Alexandra a couple of time.

19/8 We and Sandy and Max met with teacher and students in the harbor. We talked a lot of plastic pollution and how imported it is to clean up your environment. It have to start with the children and young people, them! Good luck with that! The students made a presentation in English and we gave then questions to answer. In the afternoon, in Ereke, we so a parade with children that had been circumcised (boys, the girls get a prick with a needle they say, you like to believe that). The children were dressed up in gold and colorful dresses. There were dancer and speeches from Bupati and other important people in North Buton. Local food, made from the families involved, was served on the floor in a huge tent.

Tifu Village – South Buro Island

 

Tifu South Buru Island 9/8-15/8 2018

9/8 We sailed early in the morning and we had a very changeable sailing day. We sailed with main up al day and sometime motor or jib. We had several rain showers and it was misty the whole day. Anchor down in the beautiful lagoon at 16 hour. Just after a heavy squall our Swedish fiends came in.

10/8 Lars clean the whose for salt water inlet to water-maker and the filter to generator. Now we can run the water-maker and make 60 litre water. We can have a long awaited shower. At 10 a´clock we sail in to the dock and Raymond is at the pier to take the line together with a lot of young local English students helper and of cause photographer. There were speeches and dances in the tent and Gert from Wind of Change was chosen to be honorary citizen and as such eat some special peas and have a traditional headlining on. The village lady’s have made local food for us like rice, fish, chicken, cassava, and vegetables. Some of the latter was to strong spiced for us sensible Europeans. We got bottled water for drink, that was room temperature, as much as we needed al along touring around Indonesia. A lot of bottles and straws that should be recycled!? It was possible to buy bear from the locals because they were Christian. We went a tour around the little village and up to the church. On the way we were stopped several times because the villager wanted to take selfies with us. Relaxed on Alexandra in the afternoon.

11/8 Relax on board Alexandra. Early morning we can here song and prayer from the church. They celebrate a holey day? There were boat racing in the bay and we so the woman race.

12/8 We meet at the pier at 9 o’clock and after a couple of hours there are arranged three pickup cars to take us on a tour to a fishing village. I sat in front of one of them together with Lisa and it was not much space but soft. The others had to sit on the hard fleet. They took it as a challenge and laughed a lot. Lars got very dirty in the but. After a de-rut to see a very beautiful view we arrive outside the village and the local old men met us dressed in there best clothes and the traditional head scarf. The whole village come with orchestra and we march with them into the village. Different group of women preformed with dance for us. Getting to the village we get interesting local food. We so the fishing technique to ketch small fish in the little stream by singing a special song close to the hole were the fish was hiding.

13/8 Lars got on a tour with longboat to a waterfall. I had different activity on board and rest my knee that still hurts. I sent an SMS to the sons because in Tifu we have no internet. Sun-downer at Blue Rodgers and afterwords sail in to the village for farewell party. Local food and afterwords speeches and handing over premier to the winner of fishing and boating competitions. Later dance to techno music. The local love it. I still had a good excuse for not dancing to that sort of music, my hurting knee, but Lars was high-jacked up to the gravel dance floor of a beautiful local woman. The locals just love to dance and no bad condition can stop them like heat, gravel floor, techno music etcetera.

14/8 Not a good weather window so we, and a lot of boats, stayed another day in Tifu. We could enjoy the 40´if birthday party for Franziska on Philocat. They grilled a pig. I made buns to add to the table but find out that the yeast is no good. Exposed for to much heat, that is 32C°. I have too by new and store it in the fridge. Great party with a lot of locals also. Grill a whole pig was something the locals did not no how to do so they were very interested. Also when fat was thrown away they picket it up and ate it happily. This was the only place in Indonesia we got pig meat.

 

 

Banda Neira and Banda Besar The spice islands.

30/7-31/7 We left Debut and sailed to a little island Tayandu at 7:10. Not much wind so motor until later when we set jib and sail fast. On the anchorage at 13:20.

For anchor at Tayandu. Lars shift out old leaking cool water pump to Yanmar with a knew from the spare part inventory. Wau, no water leakage any-more. Sun-downer at blue Roger but I stay home because sour throat coming up, bad stomach and leg that hurt. Could it be worst. Later on I found out that almost everybody in the rally had sour throat at that time. I enjoyed reading Elisabeth Pisani´s e-book Indonesia Etc.

1/8-2/8 2018 Sailing to Banda Neira. The spice islands. Anchor up 09 hour. A fuse goes when there are 10 meter anchor chain left. Lars have to fix it and of we go.

Arrive in Banda Neira in the afternoon the second of august after seeing several whales and especial one beside Alexandra when we drop anchor.

3/8 Banda Neira. Feverish night! Woke up at 5:30, at a Mullah´s sung from the mosque, and made tea with honey for my sour throat. I had feather all day and was coughing. Laundry, three IKEA bags, was picked up by a local boat with man, wife and daughter. We by papaya and carrots for overprice and later more fruit. Lars check out the town with Lisa and went in in, the evening, to see a movie at a hotel that Abbas, local guide, owned.

4/8 Banda Neira. To the colonial hotel and Spice Island tour on Banda Besar. We were all packed in a local boat and sailed over to the neighboring island for to see were the spices trees grow. The village were very clean and with beautiful houses, schools and mosques. We went up a long stare-way to reach the inner island with the big trees. There were big high old almond trees protecting the nutmeg trees from the sun and there were also cinnamon and clove trees. It was a wonderful forest to walk around. We could rest in a house and was served local coffee and fried bananas etc. I was very happy to manage to go the long tour with my troubled right leg/knee.

5/8 Lars on diving tour with Susan Eri Spirit. I was resting my leg.

6/8 Banda Neira. With the dingy to the hotel and a tour around the town. We went up to the old Dutch fort from 1600. Everything seemed to be closed but the Chinese shop were open so we could by a bred, cinnamon roles, Pringles, dried bananas and cola. At the old colonial hotel we got a beer and freshly made pineapple juice.

7/8 Banda Neira Lars was sick but fresh enough to take me to the reef so I could swim for a short while after Ross´s instruction. It was a beautiful reef. We left Banda in the afternoon for sailing to Tifu making a pit-stop at Palau Ambelau the 8/8. After safely anchored we had a lot of teenager boys climbing up the platform and looking inside the boat threw port-holes in the hall. They wanted books in English and we had only some brochures to give them. Al literature is electronic on Alexandra. We were exhausted and had not much patient to deal with them. Some of the boats had problems with the anchor holding and did not sleep so well.

Debut village on the Island Key Kecil Indonesia 24 july to 29 july

25/7 After visited the custom on the harbour we took a walk in the village. First the Christian part and later in the afternoon the Muslim part. We met a man at the church that could speak a little English. He was lucky being employed by the government after studied political science in Jakarta. He was waiting for his nephew coming from school. When the little boy came he took him on his motorcycle. Here in Indonesia scooter and motorbikes are the favorite transportation, we quickly found out. Back on Alexandra Lars find the fault with the generator. It was a relay that had contact problem. We made a lot of water and I could wash clothes. After some badges we made drinking water. We took the dingy in to see the Muslim part with the little mosque.

26/7 Welcome 2 wonderful Indonesia at the “harbour” with many officials from Java, South Mollucca regency, the island and the village. They entertained with music and dance. There were a lot of speeches so it took a long time. We got our first snack box also with water so we survived in the 30+ºC. In the afternoon we went with buses to a fishing village were the people had worked very hard to prepare for our welcome. There were music and dance and long speeches. The women had prepared local food and beverage for us and it was very special. We had to by coupons for 200000IDR- 88.42DKK for buying food on 6 different stands and the 7 were beverage like water or sweet water with jelly. Afterwords you could see the special local instruments and also the special fishing-boats they were using to catch clusters of small fish. We were quite tired when we arrived at Alexandra in the evening.

27/7 With dingy and Randevåg to the harbour 8:30. Nice fried bananas for 5000IDR=2.21 DKK. and picture taken with the local lady’s, one named Maria. We wait for a bus-tour for quite a while. Finally we arrived to a lovely beach and into the water for the first time in Indonesia. Only seagrass but there were fish to look at. We pay for the nice shed to change clothes as the only one, 50000IDR / 22.39DKK.

16:30 we take the dingy to neighbouring island and get it up on the sand. We had a long bus ride to a beautiful beach with big trees that gave shades for the hot sun. There were a lot of speeches, music and dances. “Gala dinner” later in the evening was special with local food made by the women in the village. I was unfortunate hurting my write knee when dancing with an old lady from the village. The old once are amazing, loving music and dance. Lars had too, almost, carry me to the bus because having weight on the knee hurt immensely.

28/7 Debut. Still hurting write leg and knee and also bad stomach. Lars with Randivåg to Langur after sim card.

29/7 Taxi with driver to Tual with Randivåg and Blue Roger. I wanted to see the town I had red about in the wonderful e-book Spice Islands Voyage, in search of Wallace, by Tim Severin. We visited the old city and there an “Arab” mosque, decorated very expensively with marble. We had a stop at a Muslim congregation around a mosque that was very colourful. All the houses around were coloured the same. Finding a restaurant was difficult but finally we came to the hotel we knew from before and got OK food.