Lifou Loyalty Islands New Caledonia

16/9-18/9-2017 Crossing to the Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia with the ICA Pacific Circle Rally.

We started, early in the morning but after most of the others. When sailing out of the bay we met Lisa and Sven-Gösta coming in to Port Villa in there sailingboat Randivåg. We started out with two reef and jib and not like most of the rally boats that went for motor and full sail. The swells were up to 3.5 meter. It was not a comfortable upwind sailing and the speed was low (sometimes only 3.5) but a short distant so we did not care. Sometimes we changed the jib with staysail and during night we had only main with two reef. Once we had a sudden wind change from east to west. In shorter periods we had to use the motor.

Going with the rally meant that we could clear in to New Cal at Lifou on the 19/9 and that was a great advantage. Now we had a lot of the westerly island close by. The clearance took 3.45 min per boat and we were 30 boats so very good.

Sailing in New Cal 20/9-10/10 2017

Big bus arranged by the rally to village with post office for buying net and supermarket with nice French food like baguette and goat (chèvre) cheese.

Lifou minibus tour 21/9 with Mike and Glenda on Manuhaea, Jim and Linaire on Panthera and Russ Jane on Vivacious. The south island is beautiful with the sandy beaches, stone formations, cliffs, flowers etc. We had expected to see caves and finally Glenda managed to convince the driver to get a hold of a guide for to see a cave. An interesting old man had knowledge about the cave and showed us the way whiled packet in the trunk. Al of us had clip-clappers on and when we saw the cave we realised that at least the women could not go deep down into the cave. We enjoyed talking with the old man while waiting for our men to turn up from the deep. Lars got beautiful pictures of the inside of the cave.

 

Sailing Vanuatu 2/8-16/9 2017

Port Villa Efate island

2/8-17 In the afternoon we sail in to “Waterfront” Port Villa with a fully packed dingy with Kirsten and Bjarne and there luggage. It is still a problem with the propeller and the tour back does not go much better when lighter. Lars found an extra propeller and will try it next day. We saw the aeroplane taking off to Fiji passing over the anchor place. Later we saw a chines news program in English on the TV. We had not looked at television for a long time.

3/8-17 Next day was busy with getting Digicel net, ATM, vegetable market but we also had time to get the best pizza ever at the Brewery (goat cheese and lamb meat) with the India pale dark beer. Lars took the jerrycan for gasoline and got it filled up. Finally, in the afternoon, we took the dingy to the big key for Cruising ships and cargo ships to visit custom and get our cruising permit for all the island in Vanuatu. We continued to sail with the dingy over to the “Waterfront” and provisioning at the supermarket.

4/8-17 More provisioning for goat cheese, vegetable, and fish. Lars downloaded photos and made series of pictures for Suva, Beqa and Pacific Harbour. Unfortunately the net was not good enough to download pictures to the web side.

5/8-7/8 17 We sail to Pelé Bay north of Efate. First 1.5 hour for motor and then jib out. The wind disappeared later on and we started the motor. We met Samoa SY JAMS and Murray called us on the VHF to tell that we had to visit Banan Bay and so we did later on. We anchor between Nguna and Pelé island in a large bay with some protection for the swells. The weather did not invite for a dingy tour to land or snorkelling at the reef. In the afternoon we had a beautiful rainbow to look at thought. We were the only boat in the bay having a relaxing two day stop over keeping up with administration.

7/8-8/8 Pelé Bay to Lamen Bay on Epi Island. It is raining 7:15 in the morning so reign jackets on, anchor up and launch the mainsail with two reef and jib. Shortly after we took out the reefs and shortly after that we start the motor because the wind disappeared. More wind is coming up and we have to get the main down. The wind gusts get lower so main up with one reef. Main down and start motor with jib out. Finally, after a very difficult day of sailing, we sail into a wonderful and calm bay without swells. We hear the children’s laughter while they are paddling around in there outrigger canoe. We enjoyed a beautiful sundown in the cockpit having beer, freshly baked bread, olive and papaya. No sight of the Dugong (Cow Fish, has a “whale” tail) but we got another trial later on. Turned in 18:15.

8/8-10/8 Lamen Bay to Banan Bay (Banam) on Malakula Island. It is raining at 06:00 but at 08:00 sunshine. Hoist the anchor and sail out of the beautiful bay. We launched the main with one reef and the jib at 8:25. Jibe when sailing into Banam Bay and the anchor is dropped at 14:45. We are getting visitor immediately. A boy in an outrigger canoe and a man in a bigger canoe asking for rope. Another one got a rope for two pompelmus (pomelo, grapefruit, citron-melon, shaddock) he came with later on. Two yang men sold two pawpaw (papaya), bananas and a bag of very large green beans for 600 VUV. The next day it is cloudy but the water is 25°C. Mobile is launched up in the mast to get net and gen-set and water-maker is running. Also the dive-compressor is taken up from the aft store room and two new capacitor, that Kirsten brought from Denmark, are installed. Now it is possible for the compressor to fill up the two tanks with air without problems.

10/8-13/8 Visit Banam Bay village

Cloudy morning. We took the dingy down into the water, mount the motor on and sail into the beach situated outside a village you cane hardly see because of the big trees. I wanted, and felt that I needed badly, a walk on the beach, because we had not been on land for several days. It turned out that we did not get the long walk because we were invited in to the village by the chief. He wanted to have a rope and so did some of the others. I was invited to come home to a beautiful young mother of four. She had the youngest one on her arms and he was a pretty one. The other children were in school were they came by walking 1½ hour each way. She cooked for us and so did the oldest man (boiled pumpkin leaf and spinach surrounding mashed cassava roll). They were wonderful people. Almost all of the men were involved in building a house for the women’s brother in law who lived in Port Villa. All the children were in school except a little “sick” one. Lars gave him a little red US football he could play with with the other children. As payment for the rope, school things and nips we got wonderful big papayas, that we like so much, and the old man came with a bag of cassava roots.

Back on Alexandra 13:00 we hurried on to get sailing to a bay further up between Malakula island and Uri island. We dropped the anchor in the dark 18:30.

11/8 Sunny morning, at Uri island, but very windy so no snorkelling. Instead baking ginger cookies and rye and wheat bred. Lars try to repair the propeller to the outboard motor. There is always something to do.

12/8 Uri Island early sunny morning but very windy and 75% cloud cover mid day. Lars find out that the 12 volt converter did not work so he connected a household extra converter that works very slowly. Later sunny again and less wind.

13/8 Aore Resort on Aore Island (pronouns Awree). Water temperature 25.6 sunny morning but a lot of clauds. Sailing towards Luganville, the one of second towns in Vanuatu, situated on the large island Espiritu Santos. We pass Uri and Uri Piv islands. Maria washes the deck while we are sailing out between small islands and the bigger Malakula island. We hoist the main sail, in up to 18 knots of wind and sail 5.5-6.6 knob. We get a cold coca cola. Lars feel bedder today and can get a nap. (We could go on messenger with Kristoffer who is moving out today of his apartment at Heimdalsgade, a little sad! He gets help by his big brother Frederik and his friends Mathias and Glen.) We decide to anchor outside Aore island, opposite Luganville, on the other said of Segond channel.

14/8 We take the dingy to Aore resort to talk to them about payment for the mooring and we got told that it is the neighbour, Paul White´s, Aore Adventure Sports, who shall have the money for the boy. We sail to Paul and Lars could make an arrangement to dive with him the day after. Afterwoods we take a tour by the curtsey ferry, cost one VUV per person, to Luganville on Espiritu Santo to buy net.

15/8 Aore Island. Lars had two amazing dive on President Coolige. They went down to 36 meter. Lars had not been so deep in resent years.

17/8 Lars dive on Million Dollar Point and on a beautiful coral reef with a lot of soft corals..

18/8 Aore island nice morning. Deliver to bags of dirty cloves to Paul’s wife and take the dingy to Loganville with gas-tanks to be filled up. It turned out that it was difficult to do with one of the tanks so the taxi driver had to take care of another customer and come back to us later. Lars tested repaired propel but it did not work. Nice bunns with tuna salad and French pâté. Lars shift impeller to gen-set and clean the filter. Make humus and boil kassava and mash it. It tasted like potatoes but more starch. Good with lam and Chicken sausages. Nice peacfull evening.

19/8 Aore Island. We went with the courtesy ferry to Luganville in the morning. The little ferry was packet because many people from the resort should go on bus tours. We went to the market after fruit and vegetables but it was not as good as in Port Villa. We had an ice-cream and a cola in the park. ATM and supermarket and back home to Aore island. We snorkelled on the reef outside the resort and it was fine because a lot offish, also big once. We took the dingy to White and paid for mooring and laundry and took a walk on the island. There were very quirt. We met a bull with his cows and calves.

20/8 We sailed from Aore Island to Palikulo Bay on Espiritu Santo. Lars had problems with the new version of Open CPN sent special to him. He had to ad an old version. When taking Dingyn up, there were problems with one of the screw to fastened outboard. I had problems to get free of the mooring boy so Lars came to help. Nice warm and sunny morning. Dead downwind out of the bay. 2 knots current so sail 6.1 knob with 11-12 SW. Free of Aore island at 09:52. We sail east a bit before heading strait north in direction of Palikulo Bay på Espiritu Santo. We past a rusty ketch wreck from the war. Beautiful bay with fore sailing-boats for anchor. A short time after anchoring we herd a bum and took the anchor up again and find another place to drop it. Nice lunch but disappointed not getting into the water to snorkel on the, for sure, fantastic reef, because of to much wind. Internet was not good but Lars managed to send an email to Pacific Circle Rally. Now there were time to bake a banana cake and a bred.

21/8-22/8 Pentacost island

Nice sailing, wind on the bow, with mainsail and stay-sail. We reached the south westerly coast of Pentacost island in the afternoon. At the 22/8 Maria’s birthday we herd kids playing on the beach and in the river mouth a family were fishing. We had a nice snorkelling to the reef close by. Lars discovered though that the anchor chain were around a “bummy” (coral head) so Lars got down, with diving equipment on, and released the anchor chain. Hamburger with freshly made buns for dinner.

23/8-2017 80% cloud-cover but nice morning with 8 knots of wind. Bistro coffee made of Vanuatu Aore coffee beans. Many birthday greetings came tonight on Facebook and messenger. Thank you all! We sail out of the bay 08:15 towards the island Ambrym and 13:41 we are in Olal on the north coast of Ambrym. Tuff sailing upwind with motor and staysail. Irritating swells on the beam. Wonderful to pass threw the reef and came in behind the Australian catamaran Tika with Russel and his family. They gave advise on the way in.

24/8 2017 Olal Ambrym island

We relaxed on Alexandra the next day. Cloudy and several rain shower but later on blue sky. A lot of wind up to 25 knots. A Cobra ship came into the tiny bay with fast speed and passed between Tika and Alexandra and sailed up on the sandy land with the front. And then there were a lot of activity emptying and filling up the ship from land. The natives came with bags filled up with cobra. A cow is bathing in the ocean. Lars is quick with the camera.

25/8 2017 The next day we went up to the festival place and had a nice afternoon enjoying old fashion traditional dancing that ending up with the famous Rom dance. There was a break in the middle of the show and lunch was served including fish, chicken, pie, vegetables and bread. We could learn about handcraft from the women and the sailors children could play with the local children.

26/8-2017 We are motoring the 2.42 NM, to Nobul village, situated at the north-west coast of Ambrym, early in the morning. Lars is very sick with lots of gasses in his stomach. We think it is a reaction of getting lactose in the food yesterday. Lars downloader GoPro film, sound trac and pictures from the festival and make copies to Russel. Florian and Martina arrange that we can have a meal together in a local hut. It takes half an hou to go there.

27/8-2017 Sunny morning in Nobul until NZ a lot of rain comes a short time. The guide from Ranon comes with a couple from NZ to talk a bout the vulkano tour tomorrow together with Florian and Martina from Esperanza. After making some bean salad for lunch we sail to Ranon. Rest a little when it is raining again. It is very warm up to 30°C. I bake bred and oaties even if it is very hot.

28/8-2017 Vulcano tour star of well. Up on the truck with Florian and Martinn. After a tuff ride up the mountain we have to get off the truck and walk up the rest of the mountain. We have a lot to carry because we have planed stay over night in a hut on the mountin. Half way up Lars get very sick with gases and when rest and drinking water doesn’t help the guide make a mixture with water and a herb find in the forest by his assistant. Lars get strength to walk down to the pickup place for the truck. After a while the truck come and drive us down to the place of our dingy. We get help with getting the dingy in the water. Lars can just drive out to Alexandra about 13-14 hour. During night Lars can throw up and the gasses get reduced. He can sleep the fever away.

29/8-2017 Ranon Bay. Lars is still throwing up but sleep a lot and the fever decreases over time. We are alone on the anchorage but I am happy to get contact with brother Stefan and our sons on messenger. Lars and I take a glass of mineral water against dehydration at 14 hour. I enjoy a cola and nuts at 17 hour and watch the cargo ship Vanuatu arrive in the bay. Bags with flour and rice are sailed in with a tugboat and bags with cobra are sailed out to the ship.

30/8-2017 Ranon Bay. Lars still not well but he could talk to Stuart on MagNet. He started taking medicine for ulcer in the morning before eating. Wish we had a doctor here. No wind and blue sky and 27.2 grader. I run the water-maker 1.5 hour and put isolation tape on the fridge. We drink a lot of water and other beverage. Esperanza sail up north today. Lars can eat spaghetti with vegetable at 17 hour. Internet so talk to the boys. The apartment is sold and paid for. One worry less but also sad.

1/9-2017 Ranon Bay. Sail to Craigs Cove village situated at the west coast of Ambrym at 08:50 after 6 night here not getting on land it I even is nice to get sailing. It clear up slowly after a misty early morning. We let the outboard hang on the dingy that hang on the davits because it is a short sail. 15NM 13 knots of wind in the nose, 3 hours motor sailing and anchor drop 12:30. There are a lot of activity on land. Peopel come home with small motorboats after shopping elsewhere. Two boys are passing by in there outrigger and said hi. Lars can eat a bole of rice. He is very weak also now with podagra in toe and knee and ibuprofen crème helps. Our sons in Denmark are going to a boat show in Ishøj tomorrow. Stew with rice and vegetable for dinner.

2/9-2017

Craigs Cove. Claudy 25°C the whole day. Magnet with Saroni Alison. Difficult to here. We get pictures from the boat show from Jeanne. Little Oskar enjoy the big Arcona boat! We rest and enjoy the bay and all the activity from the boat. Every morning women wash there cloves on lava stones at the shore side and dry them on the lava stones. They use a lot of energy banging the clothes on the stones. To women sit in an outrigger fishing every evening but they seldom get a little fish. Banana-boats are constantly running transporting people back and forth. Pickup truck transport wooden board away from the beach. The only other boat on the anchorage leaves today with to backpacker. We are alone again but both of us feel much better. Exercise in the cockpit. At 23:00 our I wakeup when a cobra boat comes in with a lot of noise from passengers. One our later another cobra boat comes in.

3/9-2017 Claudy with som blue fields. MagNet with Russel. Ten dolphins are swimming around Alexandra and make some low jumps. We put the dingy in the water and g to shore. A lot of children came and great us and we are guided around the village by Olivia one of the oldest child. They gave us fruit like pawpaw and coconut. When reaching for the dingy anchor I my left knee. scull looked and it heart a lot. After massage my knee scull came in right position and we could sail out to Alexandra. Five teenage girls came visiting us on Alexandra in the afternoon. They enjoyed finding were Denmark was situated inn the world and by looking in Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Destinations. Later on they came back with some eggs to us.

4/9-2017 Craigs Cove. 30 % cloucover wind from SE and a lot in the gusts so we stay unother day. Lars sign up to GoWest Rally. Lars clean the sea cuck to the gen-set and filled up with oil on the high pressure pump to water maker

5/92017 Craigs Cove til Lammen Bay searching for dugon. Sunny morning with only a few clauds. Sail out 8:00 for motor and it goes slowly upwind. 8:55 set staysail and sail 4.5 knots. Water 25.8, 25 in the air and swells 1 meter. At 13:30 we anchor at Lamen bay. Relax with books the rest of the day.

6/9-2017 Big turtle and dolphins around Alexandra. Dingy to land and shop. A lady sold her last tomatoes and salad. He sun had a little shop with mostly can food.

7/9-2017 A lot of wind but we get to swim and see several turtles, one very big, but no the dugon.

8/9-9/9 Over night sailing from Lamen Bay to Port Villa with start at 16:50 and sailed into the anchorage at 7 a´clock the next day.

9/9-16/9 Port Villa Efate Island

ICA Ralley

Provisioning

Tanna by air.

Sailing with Kirsten and Bjarne in Fiji, crossing to Vanuatu, and sailing in Vanuatu. 11/7-2/8 2017

We had great time with the two sailors from Denmark for almost a month. The Hindu Tempel in Nadi had to be seen and get an Indian snack after woods was good. Shopping at the fruit and vegetable market and also fish market was great.

Blue Lagoon Yasawa group: Snorkelling on reef and having an enjoyable evening at the resort

Manta Ray Yasawa group: Snorkelling

Lautoka, Viti Levu: Provisioning

Outside Vuda, Viti Levu and Vuda marina: Clear out Fiji with custom and meeting and having lunch with Sangui and Dominique from SYVIVA. So happy to met them there.

Momi Bay waiting for a passage window. Beautiful bay were we got time to relax before the crossing.

22-26/7 Crossing to Vanuatu

Kirsten and Bjarne got an early swim and I made tea and coffee. We sailed out of the reef at 8:30, on a coarse to Port Villa Vanuatu, for motor because there were no wind. At 16 hour we pas a chines fishing boat 5 NM south of us.

First night we had 20 knots and powerful swells on my watch 24-03 so when Lars came up we took the main down and sailed with jib alone 03-06. On Kirsten and Bjarnes watch, 06-09, Lars helped setting staysail instead of jib. On Maria’s watch 09-12 all are up and we sat main with one reef. It was cloudy, 16 knots of wind and we sail 6.2 knots. (24 hour 145 NM). I got an hours sleep and Kirsten cut pineapple for us. For dinner we had the tuna Kirsten caught with Kirsten’s home made cucumber salad and rise.

Second night Maria on watch 03-06. 16-19 knots sail 5.7-6.4 knots, clouded with a few stars, water temperature 25.2°C. Made coffee and run the generator 40 minutes when freezer alarm. It is cold so long trousers and fleece sweatshirt. Time for gymnastic in the cockpit. At 06 twilight and red sky at 6:30 when Lars get a wake up call. Make two bred dough rye and wheat, toilet and rest. Fishing boat from Fiji with a boy after came very close by and Lars talk to them on VHF. They say that we can passe by and there is no problem. Also a fishing-boat from Vanuatu passes by and I can see the boy close to Alexandra. Kirsten navigate 20 degrees to BB. The bred was good and I get sum lunch before my watch 12-15. the other three sailors are asleep at 14 hour. We have nice left over dinner, lam, sausages and noodles. Kirsten makes risotto.

Third night Maria watch 21-24 the Dutch boat Sponky came closer from behind and at the same time we meet a fishing boat without AIS. Lars took over at 24 hour the third night. I wake up at 04 on K &B watch because of the freezer alarm. I start the gen-set and run it for one hour. Stop it and sleep again. At 6:30 sunrise with Bjarne is not so fine because it is cloudy. Later on sunshine and nice blue sky. We sail good no with less powerful swells. At 15 hour nice papaya. Water temperature 24.9.

Sailing Vanuatu

26-28/7 Port Villa the capital of Vanuatu situated on the island Efate. Lars cleared in with custom and we all cleared in with immigration and biosecurity at an office in town. The latter had been recently moved so we had to have help from locals to find it. The atmosphere in town was nice and friendly. We find digicel and net and then on to the large fruit and vegetable market.

29/7 Havana Bay reef snorkelling also on huge mussels, visit amazing sand stone cave and passing the guides village close by in his “banana boat”.

30/7 We sailed early in the morning to Port Villa so we could take part in the National Day celebration at the stadium in Port Villa. A happy day for the locals with live music constantly, except for when there were speeches from some of the people sitting in the celebrity tent. Also a lot of shops with home made food to by.

31/7 Taxi tour to Blue lagoon, Turtle sanctuary also with small reef sharks. Here we got quite alright local food for lunch. Afterwords we came to a National park with a beautiful waterfall were we bathed in the sweet water. Kirsten jumped into the water with a rope swing.

1/8 Taxi and shuttle ferry to Hideaway Island.There all of us were snorkeling on beautiful reef and Lars dived down to the underwater mailbox and posted a postcard to our grandchild Oskar. We find our self in deck chair on the stony beach enjoying the sun. years wedding day. We were then invited for lunch by Kirsten and Bjarne to celebrate their 30 years wedding-day.

Sailing to the west coast of Viti Levu Fiji – 24/6 – 10/7

Provisioning fuel, gasoline, gas, laundry and checking out the westerly islands for later tour with guests from Denmark. 

The next day the 24/6, in rain and fog, at high tide, we sailed out of the little harbour with help from the nice “kava” lady from last night. We continued west finding OK anchorage in Waivunu Bay, outside a village with a church, a few NM away. Lars had to shunt the anchor winch so we could launch the anchor on 10 meter. It was a corroded electric cord that had to be fixed later on. Although irritating swells, humid air that made it difficult to get the laundry dry and affected our sleep, we had a nice stay seeing children playing on the sand bank at low tide.

The next morning 25/6, after Lars have fixed the corroded cord, we sail of for motor to Sovi Bay. Not much wind so motor sailing. We had to be careful getting out and also getting in to the new bay because of he reefs. Glad to have Sea Map and Google earth but also Navionic on my iPad mini. We went for motor in 7 hours before dropping anchor in a nice bay close to “the island highway”.

Early start next day, 26/6, to sail to Tuveriki Bay (south of Momi Bay) on the west coast of Viti Levu. Most of the day strong swells so inconvenient sailing. Nice relaxing evening in the cockpit.

Maria swam in the warm, 26.2, green water and dryed in the sun, now only 25% cloud cover. We run the water maker for an hour. So of to famous anchorage at Musket Cove resort on Malolo Island. Nice sailing downwind with only jib out. At 14:30 we drop anchor in the bay. The swells are strong here so not satisfied with the anchorage. We took the dingy in to check out the dive centre, little supermarket, café and resort. Nice sandy roads and expensive restaurant by the pool. We enjoyed the evening on board.

We expect strong winds the next days so in the morning on the 28/6, after setting a bred dough, we sailed back to the west coast of Viti Levu that is one of the two largest island in Fiji and in to Port Denarau Nadi (Nandi). We anchor outside the port because it is not enough water, on law tide, were the mooring boys are situated inside the harbour.

The next day, 29/6 we are of in the dingy to Denarau and the harbour office were we got a tally card after giving 25 FJD in deposition. Now we have access to the harbour at any time and can get rid of garbage, wash cloves (bye token) use the toilets and shower. The yellow one dollar bus to Nadi took us to the fabulous vegetable and fish market, supermarket and of cause Indian inspired lunch. Lars took the curry with fish and there were more bone than fish in it but the taste were good. No fish and curry for me. I had it in Suva so grilled chicken bone. We left two gas tanks outside the harbour office the next day and they were field up in the afternoon and we just had to pay at the office. So easy. Enjoyed the afternoon on Alexandra having, what is not easy to get out here, guacamole and shrimp for sundowner.

The next day we sailed into the harbour with Alexandra for to fill up diesel and gasoline before we sail up north to, the well protected against swells, Saweni Bay for motor. We went into the water and washed the hall and the next day too, with Lars having diving equipment on. That was very needed!!!

3/7 Sunny day, water temperature 26.5. No wind so going for motor passing the island Waya in the Yasawa group. Anchor dropped at Manta Rey island and jump into the turquoise water and snorkel over the reef close by. Beautiful corals and reef fish. The next day we also tried to snorkel, were the Manta Rey was supposed to bee, but the swells were to strong for me.

5/7-7/7 We sail for motor, having the wind on the nose, to the Blue lagoon between the islands Nanuyva and Sese. Water temperature 25.8 and 60% cloud cover. We take the dingy in to check out the resort. The next day we test the two good snorkelling places. Very good with a lot nice reef fish of the beach, so easy to get to. They have been fed. In the other end of the bay we had the dingy with us and the reef there was very nice but on deeper water and you have to get up in the dingy afterwards. With help from Lars it was fine.

7/7 We sail to the island Waya and a northern anchor bay for motor because 10 knots wind in the nose. When for anchor Lars put a newly fixed anchor snubber to the anchor. It worked fine. 3 motor boats and three sailing boats were there when we came so almost field up.

8/7-10/7 We sail to Denarau and on the way out of the bay we enjoy the beautiful view of the island so many pictures was taken. The wind is in the nose so motor sailing again. Later on we can set stay sail and it gives us one knot of speed and more enjoyable sailing. Drop anchor 14:30 outside Port Denarau. During the next days we had a lot to fix before guests from Denmark arrive on the 11/7. Laundry, cleaning SB cabin, provisioning etc. Most important though is to get our davits repaired. Lars made repair on davits by using carbon fibre and epoxy in Bora Bora. We knew it would not hold for ever but good in a crisis situation. Also the new dingy is much heavier than the old one so good to strengthen the davits. We manage to get it delivered to a metal workshop in Denarau the 11/7 and could get it back two days later repaired and supported by to new triangles.

Pacific Harbour and Pearl Resort Marina Viti Levu 19/6-24/6

Pacific Harbour for anchor 19/6

Close to the reef but very quiet evening having crayfish from Minerve with white wine. The next morning we sailed in to the little harbour at Pearl Resort. We had 4 enjoyable nights here. In the afternoon we had a mechanic from Suva to look at the generator. It was the capacitor that failed so a new was installed and we got an extra in case it would fail again. Good service!

Lars got to dive twice with Aqua Trek. Soft coral and wreck dive one day and two shark dives the other day and he thought it was awesome.

Also we were invited to see traditional Fijian walking on hot stones and afterwards taking part in a “Kava” drinking ceremony together with a couple from NZ. It was the 23/6 and “Midsummer Eve” so afterwords we had herring, egg, potatoes, mayonnaise and rye bread with beer and snaps.

Beqa, Viti Levu Fiji 14/6-19/6

Beqa (pronounced Benga) island was the next stop. There we had the experience with being presented for the village chief and giving him kava for letting us anchor and snorkel on his premises. We got invited to come to the church on Sunday and so we did. Afterwords we were invited for lunch at the house of the oldest man in the village. To of the grandchildren had 3 years birthday so we got birthday cake also. With a little help they should cut the first piece themselves.

We snorkel at the reef in the entrance to the bay and it was beautiful with a lot of soft corals. Also a tour with the dingy to get a closer look at the mangrove. We could here only one bird singing in this special, quiet terrain.

 

Suva, Fiji 09-06-17

9/6 The next day we had to go to the capital of Fiji Suva town with taxi for no cost cruising permit and another taxi to pay Health and from there Bio-security because we did not have Fiji $. NZ bank would not let us bye FJD$ because we did not have a bank account in NZ.

A walk downhill to the center of the city and got some rice and curry was nice. Fiji has to large population groups iTaukei indigenous (56.8%) and Indians (37.5%). We bought a solo (Fiji skirt) each for later use. Bio-security was located at Quins Port a very busy container harbor.

Showing our KDY member card we got a membership for free in Suva Royal Yacht Club. It was popular with the other sailor that we could get discount in the bar.

We enjoyed being inviting by Sven and Lisa onboard Randevåg and with Frideborg so we were six Scandinavian talking Swedish until late.

The next day Sven got to talk with a taxi-driver who wanted to take us to a Hindu, once in a year, celebration with fire walking, in a village, an hours drive a way from Suva. It was amazing.

Getting fuel was difficult but we could borrow jerrycans from Stuart and thanks for that.

Sailing to Suva Fiji 27/5 -8/6 2017

Opua to Minerve northern reef 27/5-3/6

Time used 7 days 21 h, Distant 818 NM, SOG 4.8 avg, 7.4 max, TWA 216, TWS in knots 9.4 avg, 29.1 max

Day1 27/5

Early morning tank tax free diesel, clear out with Gerry at Customs, payment at harbour office and finally lunch at the cafe for the last NZ$.

After leaving the Bay of Islands large swells met us out there on the South East Pacific Ocean. We sat optimistically mainsail and jib. Lars got a beautiful gold mackerel on the hook. We had it a couple of days later when we had gotten sea legs. At 21 hour the autopilot stop to work. We had to hand steer the rest of the night.

Day2 28/5

Water temperature 18.4. In the morning Lars could open the aft compartment and find out that a fuse to the auto computer was out of order. Luckily we had a couple of them on board so after installing one the autopilot worked again.

Beautiful day on the ocean with light clouds and only rain a short while when I could test my newly impregnated sailing gear. It was better but not good enough.

Lars had problems with small navigation computer and the modem. Electrical cord off.

Day3 29/5

Water temperature 19.2. First night watch 00:03, orange Strom rum hat on, thermal underwear, fleece trouser and jacket. A lot of wind up to 30 in the gusts early morning. During the day sufficient wind from SW.

Lars had problems with small navigation computer and the modem. Electrical cord off.

Lovely new moon. No wind so start motor at 20 hour.

Day4 30/5

Water temperature 20.0. The motor run good. Aft lantern went out and Lars change bulb during the day. Blue sky and a few clouds. Lars try to fix the connection to the modem but no held. God mackerel for dinner tasted good!

Day5 31/5

Water temperature 20.2. Foggy night with stars in the beginning of the night. Soon it is clouds all over the sky. Still on motor. 13.50 main and jib up.

Day6 1/6

Water temperature 21.9. Stars up and sailing on the beam with winds from NW. Start the motor 7:40 and furl the jib and continue with the main out. Light clouds and patches of blue sky.

Day7 2/6

Water temperature 24.0. At midnight the wind have turned and is right on the nose. Motor sailing. We can not reach Minerve south before dark so plan to reach Minerve north tomorrow instead. Time for baking rye and whole wheat bred. 13:30 one of the two diesel tanks are now empty. The rest of the day is tough sailing against the wind up to 30 knots in the gusts. Main sail goes up and down. We tried everything to sail good. We had a couple of strong reign showers also. Bred for dinner. Not much sleep.

Day8 3/6

After midnight we were lucky because the wind turned to westerly. Now we could point directly on Minerve north reef entrance and reach the entrance at 10:30 in the morning. We sail down to the south part and drop the anchor close to the light house. After cleaning up traditional chips and beer after landfall. Well deserved nap at 12:00. The water maker, that had not been running for a long time, was running for a few hours and the water was used for washing cloves. The next day it made excellent drinking water.

4/6

Second day at the reef. We took the dingy to the reef and walked on top of it at law tied. It was beautiful. We so no crayfish. On the way back we stopped at SY Lady and got invited on board for coffee/tea by Jenny and Charlie. Hope to see them in Fiji. We moved up to the north reef and in the evening we had an exiting cray fish hunt with Cran during evening. We learned that a sharp torch is very important when hunting crayfish. Thanks for the crayfish Cran. They were delishes.

Minerve reef north to Suva Fiji 5/6-8/6 2017

Time used 2 days 22 h, Distant 372 NM, SOG 5.4 avg, 8.7 max, TWA 145, TWS in knots 11.1 avg, 23.2 max.

5/6 Day1

Coffey on Lettin’go, snorkel at the reef in 23 degree water, shower on the platform and sailing out of the reef in the afternoon and we are on our way to Suva Viti Levu Fiji. Motor sailing, no wind. Cloudy but the moon can be seen once in a while.

6/6 Day2

Motor sailing, nice sunny morning. Launched main sail 9:30 wind 14-20 knots. Moon and stars can be seen once in a while.

7/6 Day3

Water temperature 25.2 wind lower in the gust. Beautiful yellow moon on the way down. The sun is coming up behind the clouds. Strong swells and 20 knots. We take two reef at 8 o’clock. Later on stay-sail and sailing on the beam 6.2 knots. Generator / water-maker, laundry in the bag. Moon is seen once in a while behind the clouds.

8/6 Day4

Water temperature 25.7. 100% cloud-cover. Pass the island Kadavu. In the massive cloud-cover a little bit off blue sky is seen. Lars prepare Fiji courtesy flag with a string for launching together with the yellow flag. Run generator and water-maker for an hour. At 14:30 we drop anchor outside Suva. Custom and quarantine came to Alexandra and soon we could take the yellow flag down. Health came afterwards and that was easy don too. They were all nice and friendly.